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917.9461 N*^S- A 



FORM 3427 — 5000— 10-50 

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3 1223 90040 2869 

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in 2010 witii funding from 

San Francisco Public Library 

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Idward A, Morpfay 
Mbllfb*d la th» San Traaelteo Chronlel* 
jMn*i7» 1919 to Jnl7. 1920 

(TOL. Ill) 


REF 917.9461 M8295 1920 


Morphv. Edward A. 

San Francisco's 
thorouahf ares / 
647* 192-^3 

(III .107) 

rr St. 


niu «i. 

Masi(»t M. 

Hfcfi— ft"w St, 


91 - •** 

lat - 






5<a «> S50 

Vol. I 

Bartary Coast 

0»rarr«ll St. 

ftuslaa Hill 

Honard St. 

Stodctom St. 

MontgOBMty St. 

Xaamy St. 

Baeohiaa Way 

nils St. 

■Dapont St. and ttrant a4 - 235 


Telagraph HUl 
Third St. 
Vorth Baaoh 

Taa Hat* At. 

California St. 
Marlcot St. 

Povall St. 
DlTiaadaro St. 
Paelflc St. 
Laidaadorff St. 

1 - 


26 - 


49 - 


72 - 


100 - 


120 - 

. 165 

165 - 195 

196 • 

. 207 

207 • 

- 213 A 

393 - 321 A 

322 - 335 
372 - 439 A 




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•toVAi I- - ^^M»^- 

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af til* ^i»?. ♦h<i^• 



I pray you. let us satisfy oar ey^a 
With th« BCBorlals and tha things 

of faat 
That do renown this olty. 

—"Twelfth Nl^t." 

IXipont street was named after a hr&Te and per- 
fectly respectahle Admiral of the American Na-vy, 
idxo helped to pat San Prtmolsco on the map at a 
time idian It aaamad to require some assistance In 
that direction. 

It Is more than possible that Dapont Clxvla, 
In the heart of the most aristocratic rasldenea 
qoarter of tha national capital was named after 
tha same distinguished offloar« or some mamher 
of his faailly In an earlier generation. 

This Is no guide to history, or to Washington, 
for that matter, and one mentions the fact In 
respect of Dapont street— now Grant aTatna--merely 
heoause some knowledgaahle persons, whan Dapont 
street Is mentioned, are prone to shrug their sh- 
oulders and ejaculate, "Oo— h: or words to that 


Historic accuracy compels admission of the 
fact that from the pioneer days until the tine 
of the fire, there were scarlet patches In tha* 


^•oif0t,ttae; fhm mm hU^ MMt «f Aslar 
iowiiiim •! iddLe 


nf^ tat ♦'Le tart Btllt tSrib^t 

^ _. . .^.l^'-.Mfi ^^■5r,■s tr*r.* tn*.-^ n 

aft#cl iMd 

jtNs oroc oi Mr bias 


li^t WUll Ui^ y t)tf - ii. v , » <U^3^a:u 


faaxms thoroo^ifar** The same high sense of duty 
also Justifies the assertion that—like the cur- 
ate's egff—Dupont street was always good In parts. 

Old St. Mary's Cathedral still stands on the 
corner of Dopont and California streets, ^diere 
Bishop Alenany of holy memory first lifted Its 
toverlng SDlre toward the skies In the early fif- 

The good Blehop~or i^xoerer else was respon- 
slhle therefor, doubtless well recoi^lsed the 
perils of the situation when he hlasoned the 
admonition that still shines In letters of gold 
beneath the great olook on Its facade) 


SCOL. ZV. 23. 

Bat the sons that came thither on erll hent 
In those early days had no wings; and It was not 
certain that all profited hy the advice. 

No Testlge remains of those green-shuttered 
tevptatlons that were the disgrace of a remoter 
•ra, but the text still shines golden, so that 
all \iiio ran may read It. 

When lower Dupont street, from Sutter street 
to Market, was widened in the early eighties, some 
differences of opinion arose as to whether the old 
aHM should stand or that the escpanded highway 
■hoald be renaaed. 

for reasons that need not be labored It was 
finally deeoMd adrisable to rechrlsten the new see- 
tlon. In the Justifiable hope that such a ceremony 
mi^t lead to a certain measure of moral reform 
there and thereabouts. 


Thus It Tsry nearly achieved the historic app- 
ellation of lleet street— not after the famous 
London thorou^^are, but after Fleet F. Strother, 
then Auditor of the city, who sou^t immortality 
In conjunction with the original Fleet street, his 
own hl|^ personality, and the regeneration of lower 
Dapont street. 


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leoTM ^ Mm mw mm Mmhv noooeat'o 

..^aX Vootu^^s.o >o»*dl»« bo«J»- •■*'"-o dnr of 
laoot aotaklo «0B of tht plow > U& thoir 

fowrtoM. OoTMtaoy oftotwojido ^lilodl J^loUo ••■•tor- 
lovKm Bootk «M OM of kor Voodorct 8ii»*ftf ^aim 
B. roltoB Mothort OommI loi(l««« 'Mso 0. 


InlBical politicians knocked thle nol)l« ambit- 
ion on the h«ad. General Grant had then recently 
passed throng San Francisco on his historic tour 
of the world. So, to arold local heart-burnings 
and Jealousies, they named the place Grant avenue. 
Later ^en the fire wiped out all the old hannts 
of Shane, and a new city was "bttllt the civic auth- 
orities ohliterated the name of Itapont street 
altogether, and called it Grant avenue all the wa/ 
from Market street to North Beach. 

Thus it comes about that, with the exception 
of the reconstructed St. Mary's, practically no 
vestige of the old Dupont street now remains. 

The unhallowed activities of the old street 
were carried on sporsidically from Clay to Market 
street; but, naturally, they were mingled with 
other industries — some of them of very happy memory. 

Horth of Clay street was once a very fashionable 
shopnlog and residence district* 

Baphael Weill, lAen he first came here In 1854, 
was employed in Cannavan's dry goods store at Wash- 
ington and Dupont streets, and it was on IXxpont 

street that he went Into partnership with J. W. 

Davidson before they opened the store at 609 Saore*- 
•ato street. 


K«aae and O'Connor were also on IXxpont street; 
▼erdler, Kalndler, Sealller and Co. -the original 
City of Paris fim—were on Clay street Just below 

David Samuels, the lace importer, father of 
Morris Samels, the attorney and playwright, ^o 
now resides in New York, and of Louis T. Samuels, 
the real estate man, had his original firm on the 
southwest comer of Dapont and Washington streets. 

Catacomer across the way was Mamay Pleasant •• 
original bachelors' boarding house, where many of 
our most notable men of the pioneer days had their 
qoarters. Govsmor—aftsrwards United States Senator- 
levton Booth was one of her boarders: Senator John 
B. Telton another; General Naglee, Judge 0. C. Pratt, 


TOSS ^•iT. HT*C IS!;.A!>' SHttOtT.^? T?rtCflTtR "'i • POCJBH* ilf y 

I i .^A .«>. r * * V 

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ajii itawl •ffdd htay «-»-> ihisn . 
la ite «txi* iAi*><*f9 it n«4i 

B Mwncr anAxno} as oa«z« o? 


In later 4«y«» teiUMtftf oywiaa tiM Urn- 

^^ :«•»»•%•, but it vkfl n»i (RMdii r 

■^ •« WMi the i*.yy"(«-^.*. 

•ert* ^i^. ■ .- . '-^ — ''■■• '■"• '•••*«-• 

Wktl«» that o> p— *w l -. ..Mta iriUi piMfeMUai yi«f* 


Ton Bell, and many another famoas personality 
enjoyed old Mavny Pleasant 's hospitality and 
wonderful Southern cooking long years "before 
she becaaie identified with the esuse celeljre 
vhieh made her a factor in California history. 

A block south, on the southwest comer of 
Dapont and Clay streets, was the original 
St.Trancis Hotel — the first "fashionable" hotel 
in the city. 

Architecturally and otherwise, this estab- 
lishment differed materially from its ntMneseVe 
of today* but it was the abode or rendesvous of 
all the elite of the city from 1850 to 1853, 
«hen it was partially destroyed by fire. 

It was a primiti-ve sort of resort, Judged 
by modem standards, and the partitions between 
the rooms were so thin that eyexybody in one 
apartment could hear ererything that was said 
in the next. 14herefore, it is needless to explain, 
the piece simply reeked with scandal. 


In later days, Oailhard opened the Commercial 
Hotel, on the southesist comer of Commercial and 
IXq>ont streets, but it was not such a place in 
its day as was the St.?raneis. 

Taken "by and large," as the sailors used to 
say, old Dapont street from Clay to Sutter did 
not present any features, nor contain any chroni- 
cles, quite suitable for general reading-barring 
of coarse the sainted fane of old St.Mary'e. In 
fact the Swiss Brewery on the east side of the 
way, between Bush and Pine streets, may be regard- 
ed as harlng an oasis of respectability. 

The brewery was in the rear premises, abutting 
on the alley, lAereas the front was a beer hall of 
sorts wherein the products of the industry behind 
were retailed to all and sundry, in gray stone 
bottles that opened with a loud and pleasant pop. 


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t« «i 4i<tln« ho«%«lfr— «p«plQr*A HA mU9T othMr 

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■J,.. 'to'lt- .^Uaj with ito* -MTsiS:^.-' 

-tlnrtvt ttorMv 

srr-rr or xi:*2.tq» MWTf {«• 

tOjeft to &nkf^ 

di»d la laoMtku:^ -. . -. 


%)M «iM «hM it 



.vit ITS >r4>wi. 

A patent reed organ emitted free and perpet- 
ual mas let and the management— a till farther to 
enhance the vraleeemhlance of the establishment 
to an Alpine hostelry — employed no waiter other 
than Tyrolean yodel ers. 

These gifted Oanymedes lilted In falsetto 
keys the plaintive airs of their natly* land, 
and their haantlng choruses of "tra-lala^lee:" 
and "tra^lalla-loo:" mingling with the popping 
of corks and the splutter of surcharged hottles. 
Bade wondrous melodies on nl^ts moonlit and 

Below, on the northwest comer of Bush and 
Dapont streets, waS the old Baltiaore House, tdiere- 
according to the hyperholloal slaag of the period- 
they "serred a corpse for hreakfast every morning. 


As a matter of fact, the Baltimore House wa* 
the resort of all sorts of poor devils, who were 
•laves to drags, and \ib.o therefore frequently 
died In unnatural ways, and had to have Inquests. 
Some, to he sure, committed suicide, and some 
killed each other. Anyhow, It was for many years 
the happy hontli^g ground of a long and Illustrious 
line of Coroners. Now It "belongs to the llmho of 
forgotten things. 

Diagonally across the street was that shrine 
of a million hapny memories— the old Poodle Dog 

Oh, glad days were they, and gladder nl^ts, 
when the old Poodle Dog was new. 

That was idiere Bohemia gathered and qaaffed 
the wine lAien It was red and and kissed the lips 
of comrades fair and \dio deigned to touch the 

Poets, painters, joTimallsts, physicians, 
politicians and luminaries of the law, all afore- 
tlJM gathered there ^ad bandied wit and pleasant- 
ries in a Bohssda soeh as these modem worshipers 
of terplschore and Henri Morger, down In Little 
Italy, may never hope to see or understand. 

tbMi> 1U«A «lth Ito rraMibMos 

I ft. *Hu..^»*.>>^rr^> ««r4. 

TJ? :^^ 

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r -r >/•-.*■. 

■Ml asA 4»fl«s of ite dyr 

tot* «nM«, 

flun t*«*« ^rp* B.*ti5«( ?aA *b»«^«f «*«««•»• «ML 


The Poodle Dog was no toy Bohemia. It was the 
gexxolne goods of the first olaa8« and the patrons 
did not have to label thenselTSS, nor to nlshehave, 
in the hellef that "by so doing they were proving 
themselres filled with the Promethean fire. It Mas 
also the haont of the jexaiesee doree of aperiod 
i^ien there was a gilded youth lAerein the li^t 
heart was ever uppermost, and the "bon vlvants of 
the day— appreciating alike the cnisine, the ataos- 
■ohere and the pretty ladies *dio found their way 
thither, lent a tone and distinction alike to the 
salon and the carte da Jotur such as would now he 

One can picture it in dreams across a shadoiQr 
spirit cloud' of frogs' legs, ooelette souffles and 
escargots bordelaise, with scalloped edges of 
pOTipanon au gratin and pate de foies gras au troffes 
do Perigttsaux. General Barnes, embodiment of the 
very haute noblesse, Dan O'Connell, huhhling with 
poetry, hon mots and eahonpolnt: Petey Bigelow, the 
a^theosis of irresponslhle deli^tfolness: Robert 
Duncan Milne at the table of some friend, yearning 
for more potent lihations than the oustoaary red 
vine, and hewailing 'Aat he termed "the oonteapt- 
ihle Tjatujity of pence"; George Barnes, courtliest 
■en and dosen of the dramatic critics; Joe War d, 
Dave Wlllianeon, Jeremiah Lynch, the Egyptian Manny 
oolleotor and Boheialan, Bryan Clinch, the gifted 
and pious Irish architect, ^o bo frilly a-roreciated 
the viands while derjlorin^ tha frivolity of the 
surroundlngsj Arpad Hansthy, like John the Baptist 
in the wilderness, preaching the then unappreciated 
gospel of Calif oml»-Bade dhsnipagne; Armadee Joullln, 
Dr. Jeroae Bnghes, pupil of the great Jerome- 
artist, Coroner and physician— Joe Sheldon, Harry 
Bissell, Walter Kaoltaann, Basil Ricketts and scores 
of other li^thearted hoys about town. 


Then there were actors and theater managers and 
tourists from the conventional East, and the purple 

Sm% uA «11 tbt MmtrlM n«votn th» mm. T1* 
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of iU 


East and all the eoontrl^s across th« ssas. The 
Poodle Dog vas a place to go and a place to see 
#Ti^ a place to renember— hecause It was no empty 
spectacle. One left its kindly portals with a 
hea-vy stoiBadh« trxt a light heart, and a mind 
filled with lingering memories of pleasant wines 
and aerry roioes: lips that were red and eyes 
that smiled pleasantly and well. For, nhaterer 
else may he confased in one's mind concemias 
the ineffahle lures of the Poodle Dog and its 
people in those dear, departed days, one fact \#ill 
stand <m\ forerer, rosseate and immortal, ineradi- 
osible froa MiMry's hrii^test pages—those were 

One of the most heautifal and pious traditions 
entertained "by the topers of other days waS that 
concerning the three trees outside the Swiss Breir* 
exy on Donont street. Between Bush and Pine. 

Firstly, they formed the guide and landmark 
wherehy the locality of the oasis could hest "be 
described to the stranger; hut secondly — and 
principally — they stood without the Brewery 
portals as friendly and helpful monitors to the 
rereler awakening amid the gray corpuscles of the 
dawn, mercifully informing him as to his here- 
about s. 

Thus it becaae an article of belief aaont those 
casual patrons of the establishment ^o customarily 
remained with their potations until they succumbed, 
to alua^r that Providence had placed those three 
trees on the hillside "to let them know ^Aere they 
were at" \riien they awoke. 

One morning the Brewery, as well as the three 
trees that had blooned as a guide and a lantern to 
the feet of the merry-maker, went out on the wings 
of the fire. 



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of tkO -pOOt. 



Tastes differ; and, in the conception of idiat 
constitutes real pleasure, they Tary so tremend- 
ously that comparisons are more Imposslhle than 
odious. Nevertheless It seems safe to opine that, 
fWB an average point of view, there was nothing 
among all the other delights and allurements of 
old Dapont street that proffered such lasting 
and profound contentment to the seeker after hap- 
piness as did Bums' original Haamam "baths. 

When these were new, they were down next door 
to the comer of Market street on the west side 
of Dunont street, with a nice little garden In 
front that "brou^t to the Jaded mind of the worn- 
out reveler sweet visions of "buttercups and daisies. 

Doctors sent patients there, weary students 
and lawyers, hralnrfagged hy pondering over stubh- 
om cases, sou^t restfiil solace In Its steaalad«n 
Nirvana; "but the "backbone of the clientele were the 
■regular roundere''~the old sports and the young 
would-"be houlevardlers, "knights of the gr»en cjoth," 
athletes, jockeys and prise-fighters— nAo cnme there 
to recoup or to train down. To these latter, of 
course, the attractions of the estah),is!aBent wer« 
mere Incidentals in the routine of their lives. Bat 
to the hon-vlvant ^dio had tarried too long amid the 
joys of Dapont street generally, and was wwuri«d of 
all the world, the restfol shaapoo and qaiet eot in 
the Turkish hath was the sweetest thing on earth in 
the old dajf. 

nrflPiBArioRAX bsveraoss phspahbd 


When Dapont street wfts widened into Orant avenue, 
the garden in front of the "bath was swallowed hy the 
thoroo^ifare, "but the "bulldlag remained, colored 
■traagely on the outside in deference to some rth- 
antom "belief that the Tuxtai have hathhouses that are 
painted tVat way, and as alluring as ever to the 
raatoqusres of the past. 


Sfcxt 4#MPt "^ ^^ !."J1'IW'V ^ li*jiW% >lM#%t 

««M mm ««M t 

nktf«l9 ifRVvli^ |iiMi<ii»» «bi%lMV^ Miqr A tSM 
«r UM teth patrwi h&d ^ aMd his wWh 

to .*ft^' ' "■ ' ';tb«l *-" ■"-•'-^y Ite 

^fr%a %k* MM &• «Mn« ttf B«i 

Tariff* cf ri furz ooeMstlt tlMfWse *»A %h«« <M(Vt 
4 bos MAMiMqr 'oo- '' » 

%K| : >afliMd M a v«l« W 


jnu/*'*-' * * jaa wusmb caop-ffisi 

A»or thfti 1«4 *0v«^ %h» Bao/*, aad «. >rt«iilT 

f«r • T«»y tp#«f" 1*1 y 


Next door, on the oomer of Market street, 

Caley and Rodar's saloon (fomerly John 
Orlffln*s}, a popular hostelry, >dienee gin 
flBies and other soothing and inspirational 
heTsrages were sent in to the thirstier pat- 
rons of the Boms baths. On the other side was 
"Ifaole Harris" pawnshop, lAither— many a time 
and oft— the hath patron had to send his watch 
to pledge for the idxerevithal to defray the 
cost of refreshments or other expenses incurred 
"before the dread process of "soaking out" had 
properly begun. 

"Uncle Harris" tms the nom de guerre of Ben 
Lichtenstein« w ho also condacted a Jewslxy bus- 
iness in the same establishment. 

Occasionally a sportive patron of the baths 
would send down his entire clothing outfit to 
Thiele Harris, beseeching him to advance the 
price of a fev cocktails thereon and thus save 
the life of a suffering customer. It is possible 
that on occasion the fidticiaxy uncle obliged a 
steady patron in response to a wail of this k i n d; 
but his transactions were confined as a rule to 
the Jewelry end of the business. 

Before the Caley and Roder's era, it should 
be explained, Mme. Blanche Oulif 's millinery es- 
tablishment—one of the most fashionable of its 
day— was on that comer. Her sons still reside 
here, and her granddati^ter is one of the most 
attractive and dlstingoished members of the 
Players* Club. 


The next establishment was Trend's Corset 
House, ^Aiich ran through to Market street, as the 
Saviiigs Union Bank building on the saas site does 
today. Beside the entrance to 7rerad*B was the 
door that led "Over the Hoof", and gave opportunity 
for a very precious "spoof" that was played on many 
an inquisitive sportsman fron up-state or elscwber* 
beyond the pale, in the days of long ago. 

;.^. : jlrvim^ I miM IMI MBA pMWlVl* te". 

of «k- 

f ■ -'--HI tc • '"*-' ' 

■J .»r «L . 


,1 ......^ 

:^i>i. snxj "iTaasMR* 

■r«r 3«A*t i«)B»» a0 
hi* idMM aM 9<iaklaf 




Tlx« spoof consisted in allowlne the rlctlm to 
OTsthear a coopls of his plotting friends arguing 
as to the propriety of letting him visit a pecul- 
iarly wicked and secret establishment, to which 
proposal the closer friend kept raising grave oh- 
Jections because of the danger of the trip and 
the obvious innocence and possible talkativeness 
of the victim. 

The victim, aroused to a frantic pitch of 
curiosity, thereafter devoted all his energies to 
getting an invitation for the projected ezp^dit- 
lon, and ¥&s for long and by all dissuaded beeanse 
of the grave risk of apprehension and the hl^ 
expense. Eventually and invariably— after having 
set up many roonls of drinks, and otherwise done 
all in reason to prove himself an absolutely re- 
liable and "no end of a regular fellow"— -he was 
permitted to Join the party, which immediately 
repaired to the door in the shadow beside Freud's. 

There, having been made to take off his boots 
to avoid making a noise, he was led up many flints 
of dark stairs and out on the roof, over which he 
stalked — mostly on his hands and knees, or lying 
flat on his face to avoid observation—for any 
period up to half an hour ^Aen the party reached 
another door in the roof which the leader knocked 
on three tines. The signal given, the door was 
opened, and revealed another fll^.t of stadrs with 
another closed door below— a bright showing throu^ 
the grlagr transon. 


•Tor Ood's sak»» not a sormds" wQfuld lAleper 
the mentor, Down they crept; the newcomer hogglag 
hit shoes and guaklBg at every cre^k of the stair- 

A couple of moments later, the door behind the« 
would open again, and the lookout man would gasp 
down in an agonised \Ai8per: 

■Rush it boys! knock in the door belowt Here 
come the eopsi" 

In an instant the leader and victim h^d T>ounced 
throu^ the darlmess to the door below. It burst 




. . ffiftja ite kti; 


HI M 'J. 


^ ...a 


open at their Impact, and xtp rose a ghastly peal 
of laughter. 

The door opened on Brook street—the little 
alley that ran through from Market to &eary str- 
eet , about midway "between Kearny and Dapont—and 
there, next to I^one' "champion shoe hlack" stand, 
were all the pals and acquaintances of the unhappy 
Tletlms' friends, lustily cheering the latest of 
the shoeless ones lAu) had heen Inducted over the 

It WaS not uncommon to Insist ttpon the victim 
depositing a hundred or even five hundred dollars, 
"hall money", in case of arrest, with some respon- 
slhle mutual friend before allowing him to start 
on this mysterious hut perfectly Innocuous expedi- 
tion. A list of a few of the leading names of 
eminent statesmen and others idio eagerly put up 
such hail money would set eyes argoggle even today. 


That roof trip w*is all over the Blythe prop- 
erty in the earlier days. Tom Blythe owned pra- 
ctically the whole block from I>ipont to Kearny 
street, and from Market to Oeaiy, at one period. 

Blythe was very fond of sitting In the Saloon 
and grocery owned by a Oeroan, named Buck, ^^lo 
was his tenant on the southeast comer of I>xpont 
and Geary streets. One Jovial evening. Buck br- 
ou^t up the subject of his yearning desire for a 
home — to make this beautiful grocer;^ saloon his 
hot! for aye and ever. Blythe was touched in every 
sense of the word, and allowed Buck to have the 
property at a reasonable figure. And in doe time 
Buck 3>assed It on to Verier and the City of Paris. 

A similar Incident happened in the case of 
the property on the point of the gore that after- 
ward became the Richelieu saloon. Adam and Klbbee, 
of the Old omer at Montgomezy and Coimnerelal 
streets, and the then Hew Comer of Market and 
Montgomery streets, were good friends of Tom Blythe. 
Thay were cheery conpaay, talked well and kept 
good liquor. So, ^Aen they opened the Newest comer, 
To« Blythe again did business out of business hours 

Mn WMW^W * 


..^»- d« u^ii.. 


3»t wf" 



and parted vrlth that l)it of the "block as he had 
parted with the City of Parle site. 

Aoross the way fr<» Book**, at the northeast 
comer of Geary and Dapont streets, was a hoase 
of rare epicurean memory — the Naieon Riehe — one 
of the most exclusire, most expenei-re and most 
li^t-hearted restanrants of the town, dnring 
the late decades of the last century. 

Unlike the Poodle Dog, "before mentioned in 
these articles, the Maieon Ridie did not cater so 
nooh to the general publlc—eren the elite section 
of it—as to prlTate parties, and especially par- 
ties a denz. 

The cuisine was unsurpaesable. So were the 
wines. A nan with money enoo^ and a c<mr«de to 
his liking, could -orohably have a "better time of 
it In the Maison Rlche than anywhere else in the 
world, so far ae eating and drinking and pleasant 
unohtrusive serrlce were concerned. He might go 
to sleep on the -oiano or "bathe in the "best chan- 
pagne, and erery effort would he made to make him 
feel quite at hone while so doing. 

But he could not go outside his own door and 
call in some of the other guests to Join him in 
his "bath, unless he first duly sent in his card. 
It was no place for comaonity singing, except lAien 
a special little party made a special little cobb- 
unity "eing" of its own. Ko"bocly that patronised 
the old Rlche — unless he had a lisp— would ever 
have dreamed of calling a vocal concert of any kind 
a "sing," and had he ventured to call the things 
on the menu "eats" he wotild have "been hurled from 
an upper window. 

A block above the Hlche, on the northeast cor- 
ner of Post street, the Bohenlan 01u"b prospered 
for ii»ny a long year, after It had outgrown its 
hoaw over the California Maxket. Half a block above, 
on the northeast comer of the alley that runs "be- 
hind the White House, was Harry Maynard»s saloon, 
an erst^*lle faaous sportsmen's rendesvous, lAere 
Ioaa« Mitchell (John Eerget) and Charlie Mitchell, 
the English champion, and scores of other pragillsti 
of world renown used to foregather and show their 





prt«i««« before mall "but select aodlenoes that 
knew Jtttt as noch about the gaae a« the ^Axole 
50,000 ^o "broiled In the sun at Toledo to see 
Jets Willard hashed ahout hy Jack Dempsey for 
MX* Boney than Harry Magmard erer saw. 


Jtist ahout this section of Dopont street, 
"but on the west side of the way, were three the- 
aters or masie halls of sorts, vAiere the can-can, 
performed "by ladies of remote allurement and 
nature chanM, was the chief attraction. 

The Odeon, on the southwest comer of Morion, 
was prohahly the hreezieat of these estahlistaients, 
so far as dancing v«as concerned, while in the 
Palace of Varieties, ^ich flourished in the hase- 
nent on the southwest comer of Post street, the 
performers—without attempting such situations and 
allusions as distinguish the modem society drama- 
went as far as the Police would allow them to go. 
Ned Westell was manager and star performer and was 
a faaous figare in his day. 

The hest known of these places, howersr, was 
the Elite, owned axxd managed "by a man named Rice, 
vho was shot and killed on the steps of the theater 
by Policeman Joe Wallace one night in the middle 
ei^tiee. Wallace was afterward tried for the shoot- 
ing and receiTed some minor punishment therefor. 

On the northwest comer of Dupont and Post str- 
eets, opposite the Palace of Varieties, was the old 
Temple Bar saloon, kept hy ah Englishman naned 
Harris, lAo speolali««d in purreying Xn^ish ales. 
Thither, in their heyday, came Peter Jackson, Jimmy 
Carroll and all their pugilist contenrporaries, as 
well as countless drinking men, for Harris mixed 
ales, served in the English fashion. 

Anim.t 3. 1919. 

William A. Richardson, the first American sett- 
ler in San Tranoisco, pitched his tent on a spot 




%• 1ft 





that would now be deacrlbsd as the eAst side of 
Grant aTsnae, south of Olay street. 

Bat thoui^ Richardson's name is flnnly es- 
tablished in history throo^ his right of prior- 
ity and association with the Calls de la Fonda- 
eion, his original abode was a flimsy affair 
not worthy of the name of a hoose. 

The first real American house in the city 
was that erected by Jacob Primer Leese in 1836, 
on what was later known as the southeast comer 
of Clay and IXxpont streetft, in the first fifties 
was the site of the crlginal St. Francis Hotel- 
the first hostelry on the Coast that was really 
worthy of the name of a hotel. 

This establishment has already been referred 
to in connection with Ditpont street* In the int- 
erest of history it may be well to say a little 
more about the original house of Jacob Leese-the 
pioneer hoiM and store of this Western metropolis- 
ta lAose historic site now flourishes ir its calm 
Oriental way the business of some Chinese fish- 

Leese came up here from Los Angeles in April, 
1836, with the object of becoming Captain of the 
Port. He loolced over the place, saw it was good, 
went back and sold oat his LosAngeles business, 
then got Governor Chioo at Monterey to grant hia 
an order for 100 Taras in any part of Yerba Buena 
he chose to select, as long as the place was not 
within 300 Taras of the shore line. 


Leese selected the Clay and l>xpont streets 
site, secured men and lumber and rushed up a freae 
building sixty by twenty^fire feet, ^ich was 
completed before the fourth of July of the saas 
year. Then be sent out invitations far and wide 
for a Grand fourth of July opening festival. Every- 
body from as far afield as Soncoa respondsd, the 
Y!>ll«Jo8, the Castros, the Kartiasses and all the 
other done— and there they danced and fed axid 
flirted and sang all July the Fourth and July the 


Fifth— with no cessation to thair festivities. And 
on July 6 Leese got up in the morning and cooled 
his fevered brov at the pomp and settled doun to a 
business that throve from the first hour. 

Next spring— romantic aftexnath of the royal 
opening fandango, he karried the sister of General 
Yallejo. And, on April 15, 1838, at the Comer of 
Olay and I>xpont streets, i«as hozn the first American 
Native Dau^ter of the Gk>lden West, Rosalie I^ese. 

With Leese was then living a Swiss engineer, 
Jean J. Tioget* It was Leese agd Vloget ^o, when 
(rovemor Alvarado ordered the^refect of SanPranclsco, 
Jose Castro, to have a survey made of the "Little 
▼alley of Texte Buena" in 1839, mapped out the 
village from ^diat would now he Broadway to California 
street axxd Montgomery to Powell. No names were given 
to the streets it included, Imt in Tloget's survey 
they are practically the save as the streets of today. 

Wherefore, it may he said that the comer of Clay 
•treet a&d Grant avemie today is the spot that wa> 
the nucleus of the modem city of San Fnuaoisoo. 


Subsequently Leese secured a lot on yJb&t was then 
the beach, but is now the northwest comer of Mont- 
gomery and Commercial streets, and erected there a 
great two and a half story house and store— -which 
was the first really substantial business building 
in the city. This he sold out to the Budson Bay C( 
peagr in 1641^ and then he moved to Sonoma. There 
were thea al>oat thirty white families settled in 
Texte Buena. 

The Hudson Bay Cosqieny disposed of the Leese 
store when the gold rush came in 1849, gjaA it beoa 
the first of the big gambling saloons in the new 
Saa Trsaeisoo. The Dupont and Clay streets property 
now ^longs to Attorney Robert P. Troy. 

Tkclng old St.Mary's Church on the north east 
comer of Oalifomia and Sc^Mmt streets stood a 
house that was the scene of many lively affairs 


1% mm 

m •!& '^I^^P' 

•xmmA it. 

MM *■■ -^^^ 

vbUjti tummiM 


ittia <»'^ iiM i»i.iiNi»Vh' 


^ mil »«^ '^^ ^-ur.*; a 


», iJmc 

laca crc 

•dr itim w^ibt-. 

«w tf -. 

-•^»tMI U t»i* 

9lmA m» 


^-/rts'rmr aii .L"j>i.ff«ft tc: .79* rsc^ 5rf ^' 

"w r»- 

ta g>aa e " i "H ^ 'w**^ 

iBB^y& v*^^^^^^^^^^ ^—^^ T^^*" 

U Ml 


and on« sensational murder. 

It vas an old resldenee, with a stone wall 
arofond It, once the ahode of a wealthy pioneer, 
iriileh In course of time heeame one of the typical 
estahllshnents of the nel^horhood. 

Thither one night went a gambler known as 
Lucky Bayes, i<ho llred principally on the earn- 
ings of women of the town. He demanded money frtn 
one of his victims In the house* and when suffi- 
cient was not forthcoming he strangled her with a 

Somehow he managed to get out of the house, 
as he had entered It, unnotleedt and for quite a 
while thereafter the crime remained a mystexy. 
Eventually, however. Lucky Baywa was arrested and 
brought to justice. 


In connection with this crime It was flippant- 
ly observed at the time that the murderer had 
endeavored carefully to ciboy the admonition on 
St.Mary's Church, "Son, observe the time and fly 
from evil." And for long. It was noted, he was 
suoeessful In hla flight. 

That text, which is still emblazoned on the 
ehuroh front. Is from the 36th verse of the fourth 
chapter of Soclesiastes. 

In this cozmeotlon some worthy lady has written 
demanding an explanation, and contending that there 
is no such text, and no etich verse in the Scriptures. 

It has already been stated that the writer of 
these articlee claims to be neither a Baedeeker nor 
A Baaeroft. It may be added that neither does he 
cIaIb to pose as an exponent of matters pertaining 
to modem compilations of the Old or New Testament. 
As pertaining to the comer of Dtroont and Califor- 
nia streets, however, it may be repeated that 
St (Mary's is a Catholic church, and, as such, its 
elergy are apt to use the Doual Bible so-called, 
as distinguished from the Revised Version commonly 
used by Christian churches of other denominations. 

■■■•■■ «M kMi to tki flniftii^Ufc « 

Tbo«9 doac nat a had pagMd cmkI cf oal>ttMWi dh«i 

•aaA«BM «&: alf la tte tNil«Kto, mbA t.-. 

Ttd^U taVL loM, MMb that ^fpmn U th* 

ycuoattv vov gv crfrr axoAzi.^? 

T« mtwm to tho m^>«t tt DvtitK^At itw^« 
MUKten* howivwrt MKBttott ihoald V 
po« (l7 g«MM«l tw^Hr ^)^ «««' 

the ' Af MntoB irlfMt «rf aKt4%v 

fiMLt^ tJittei oad lisrror m% ti 

'olioOHMI 000X101 WwtfoOt MV ft£ iiU J%«dl 

Itfoot ?olUo Statioii« «ot OB p»tfol ot ttwl 
ooxnor ono aoniiw U t)io oi^loo «lMa ho tm 
a Mtt la his ototMifot foot ooatac o«l of oao 
«f tbo *oyib«' "^« oaMkliv taurrio^'*^ -^ ---i 
Ihqpoat otvo* . SoQ^lao bailod v bo 

•tertod to nai ymmtmpm Hoaiffoa Mudo « daob 
oad wnrofltod tko folio*. 

Bo bf<9«ekl hla teok to Urn "o«(k« «Immo 9m 
1m4 oooa ltfa mnnpso, oad kaooleod at tte «o«r^ 

flbOYO IMUI DO aufwov* 

Bo xmohod la tho Aao». Cbt Iho > la lor 

oa vtfMrtanto gui — dooA, UpmjIiI 

TiaufimA «|Bft t« tlM M«» 09fl— lllT OoIloA 
th: <0>-flMM koaoOO liMM thooo MMOa 

li?»C "arx&o' *- aad iMMl^A* 

Vnlit Bc ■aawor, Kiu^tm 1» TQt«h«l 1x thA After? 
^> ta opo" 

oAo ^^ruic JA»A la tea n\{[n iji imi: w»at9 suoagr* 

ia Imo tooa otaloA Wflwo. t*s»TO an a 
of taqpAoaooat iwtohoo la ife« 
olMO%t «! fioa wo aasa ex tjc. 

olSMft mt. TiA o ^ ^ W ia»a d . ttto 

tte aoao oaloto ao 


Th« Sooal Bl^le vas ooBplled from the Latin 
Ta3^at«t and, in the oonpilation of that wozk, 
access was had to the Septnaglnt and other his- 
toric documents fron the Alexandrine Li1)raz7-. 
Those doctnnents had passed oat of existence tAien 
the HeTised Version vas heing nad«| and as their 
contents survlTed only in the TcQ^tSt and the 
Vtilgate saTored of Roae* snioh that e^rpears in the 
Sofoa^ Bihle— Incltiding most of the Book of Ec- 
clesiasticas—does not figure in the Hevised 


To return to the subject of Dupont street 
Burderst howerer; mention should he made of a 
partictilarly grvvsome tragedy that occured on 
the comer of Morton street and excited maeh 
public indignation and horror at the time. 

Policeman George Douglas, now of the Bush 
Street Police Station, va- on patrol at that 
comer one morning in the ei^ties when he sav 
a man in his stooldnged feet coming out of one 
Of the "crihs" and sneaking hurriedly down 
IXxDont street* When Douglas hailed the man he 
started to rtm: hereupon Dou^as made a dash 
and arrested the fellow. 

Be hrought him hsudc to the "crih" lAience he 
had seen him emerge, and knocked at the door* 

There vets no answer. 

He pfushed in the door. On the hed within lay 
an unfortunate girl ~ dead, strangled. 

Douglas went to the next crih—they called 
the little two-room houses vhere these women 
liTed "cribs" — and knocked. 

Again no answer* Again he poshed in the door; 
■gain the grim spectacle of a strangled unfortun- 
ate lying dead in the midst of her tawdxy finery. 

As has heen stated before, there are a number 
of unpleasant patches in the history of Dupont 
street! and for a long period the name of Morton 
street meant -rice plain and adulterated* Wherefore 
the name exists no more* 

ma%mrkmty, ftni •!«»%•& hit &iTt kuAw»«» «tt 
tba MTthftftCt MSMfMr tf SkqwKl aai ll*9%« aty 
•«%• ia M manay tetiwHM tnm «kt wa y ij r ltt - 
on* i«inl»%iaii tf tbt loaalltj^—Mv ttw 
rtMAM«t ■■■li— of lh« MUll Ajy* «Mda 4i»- 

'^-'Mawr " ^- *-^ llimtixiwt *v aagr W •«»*- 
» B««t«y of tbm dtp*. 

fl«i of »tw^ 

act %1m m DttpoR' 

a»2 fftffAiaiii, 

the at (HM m tiM •■■• «ite« 

:-' •-^-.'..'.j -^u '.» •%*••%•. QvMrriMir 
.i 9f fsMlhaMKr, VlUlMi tfiA C«, atv SotlMft, 
VilIi4iM aaA '^- -/ad m Um tMt tii* «r DicvMnt 

n«fur Olk»iiia!i«. «<> JM0i» iriSt a»v Itirat In •>»• 

2^0«l. Is ISM MM Untit VMiAtd B«Rgr ldMM«A« 

-«• Mt ' ttMl tear %9 him It^iM 

. 1^«tW. - .OV laiMMlMll ciVM^ MM • 

)>rMiip4M LnlMbiiad ^ ao«l» wti aviftUMiit tmk 

Mp. m <fc» !• ** t-^ ^ 


The fact that Pete Dorsey, vdiose Stockton 
street dlTe sabseqnently achieved world-wide 
notoriety, first started his dive basinets on 
the northeast comer of IXxpont and Morton str- 
eets in no manner detracted froa the unYirtu- 
otis reputation of the locality^-now the 
choicest section of the retail dry goods dis- 


Policeman George Douglas, it may he men- 
tioned, is a son of the late Captain Douglas, 
yiio was for yean a Bestor of the department* His 
hosM was on the soathwest comer of IXxpont street 
and Sdith place, hetvven Greenwich and Lomhard 
streets, then a popular residence district. 

Captain Bing^iam of the ori&in-^ steredoring 
fixta of BinghsB and Menzies lived across the way 
on the east side of Dupont street near Lombard. 
Stuart Menzies lived bat a couple of blocks away 
on Francisco street between Dupont and Eearoy. 
Sdward Tlanagan, agent of the Coos Bay Coal 
Mines, lived on the east side of Dapont Just 
north of Greenwich. J. M, and D. F. Verdinal, 
the attorneys, had their hone on the saiM side, 
between Broadway and Tallejo streets. Grosvenor 
7rancis of Taallaier, William and Co, now Cotton, 
Villiaa and Co., lived on the east side of Duoont 
near Chestnut. His son, Eric, now lives in San- 
Bafael. In the saae block resided Harry Edwards, 
the old-tiaw actor, and next door to him lived 
Stephen X. Potter. Belov Chestnut street was a 
precipice inhabited by goats and squatters, and 
it USUI the joyous and self-liQMsed task of the 
TQfoager Potters and Trtnaois and other boys of the 
neig))3K)rhood to repel with rocks and sticks the 
frequently attested invasion by goats of the 
tipper regions to the south of the precipice. Thus, 
alas too often: were the seeds of enmity sown be- 
tween the AaerioAns on the plains above and the 
squatters on the goat-ridden precipice. 


I, m. Miltt of %1m miAT 

Paeif itt sirMt miA lyoaiiw 
thii Nltaiflaii «tavl«A ttm 
..„ .^.jxi% vtSMis. ?lut «M U «k« 

•Ite •f 29llpM% •%>••»» JM« 
t'^ MM BUI Oni«*a «M»iikUt 

%im of u - Ja» 9lA madoax. hwiae irltfe 

th« li3>Q«4 ▼•WftAa thai tiaoA qa tfc 

•«Mty of ttMBl ««i ▼aillajo atrMtfi, vmm oa 

1 aaa« oy iMaMdlailaa ^ 
«:surd& o£ ;.;«2r«n«ta» tluraa Aaota - ^±*jo 

§%!•«%, attlra) in thfliT TUltiVt 00'. . with 

tteir br ^ M«ti inMB oafiwtiahXj 

•var %hatir :^aa£b« aai sAoujioara. 

Oi9.rtrvtlly aat«Bt tka wv on tha la ntti aaal 
aatM. 4* taloaB aad gsraoarjr itaia af IWHi- 

laaaA .^Kd^xa. 


-« Bivatti atxaat to Talagsafh h 'a 

■:r.r^^i% «aa a tantral aaA laadh iaariaaA '3?Atji>^. 
wyd oTon taSx!- s-crrwia *bo lln««»a alMut aagr •* **• 
baaia »taWj Jiaa» aanravaat^ 

iona et^-xiMi. oa xa aaaily araxT )«a < in €» vMtor tlM 

BatvaM nibart aa4 9Taa»«iali atvaata, « tte 
•aH tUa af lXtQ>a«l. ttiU ataaia «Im Xtaliaa 

O^Miii fit nn\tAc ?fftiiY «tt PmAi viMira Oaviiaal. 
•c' acata ta teariaa, p r t ntU mi 


E. Williams, an artist of the early days, 
lired on the southvest comer of IXxpont str- 
eet and Broadway* 

Meyer Ihief's dzy goods store v&s at 1122 
Dapont, hetvoMi Pacific street and Broadway. 

The old road to the Mission started from 
Washington and Sapont streets. That was In the 
days ^en the area ^ere Itapont, OTarrell and 
Martcet streets converged was a pond, \diere 
ladies and gentlemen of the period did their 
Imndsrlng, and yegetable gardens flotirlahed. 

On the west side of Dimont street, just 
north of Washington was Bill Craig's erstwhile 
famons iriiolesale and retail liquor estahllah- 
ment, w hither everybody went for hot Scotches 
at a time \ikMn prohihltlon was not even a 

One of the landiutrks of the city up to the 
time of the fire was the old Mexican house with 
the hroad reranda that stood on the northwest 
comer of IXzpont and Vallejo streets, i^enoe on 
Sundays and holidays the Senoras and Senorltas 
sallied forth to mass or benediction in the 
Church of St. Francis, three doors below Vallejo 
street, attired in their native costumes, with 
their bewitching mantillas thrown coq[uetlshly 
OTer their beads and shoulders. 

Diagonally across the way on the southeast 
comer wsia the saloon and grocery store of Ferd- 
inand Eggers. 

OHDBCH DisrnraniSHEi} by papal 


from Dapont street to Telegraph hill, Vallejo 
street was a Oentral and South American coloiiy, 
and eren today anyone who lingers about any of the 
business blocks thereabouts will hear conversat- 
ions carried on in nearly every language under the 

Between Filbert and Oreenwioh streets, on the 
east aide of Dapont, atill stands the Italian 
Church of Saints Peter and Paol, where Cardinal 
Satolli, the Papal delegate to America, preached 

WMhiaftM RtMti* ia th« bar; OOBtMntltar %0 

>U1 OratcU S«o««} - aaUbiiilaMat. U 1« 

Alt%ar, of th* i^'va- .« -riip- nf ai%i«r «ii ©••« 

had his bow MitiMaa IwtAi 

•oA ?taa« i» k. aia&iafi. v. JL« t«arl«r» iiM 

Q%*$a BMrttor ^t "■.«¥ .v^. ^sruP. of tS? sM.'*i|»lac 

aa& AMai f*tlA» 

a4 fov yaax4 d» iju iJajxiu^ aiir&<s^, 
Miw. ^t tnnwMTWjrtlT wtto^ tic to "5 

^ 0J7 aa^ai4.t e-(^rac'i, upvosxta 

74 %ha «1i>mt«d 

"rniiOyaoaia" nwm flourxo^i* « sovUwMt sor- 

Mr of ?ixM iPA 9cmor>t vtr^* loiitfallMdla iia* 

a Wrtrax* «mA' ^J>C aac^ 

»%M \t%ta«. iA S.S* apo^naom it mm a xwv 

4? It5: tha rcVn trntow^san It*:© s r!lon« of 

If • M^ t« ^ f«ii^iAwvi la d&» CU9* J^ UM 
or cunia murlatj ttf tntlz^nfttatn fftia a^r «m 
«rt>ii1jati ia a i^Uas of 1»» mtuM hF^ 


ruMwiaa, wtM ftr«imaa*a Mia ^kiac 

1 tiap \tA ■aaiwu'iliitiadt 

dCrUlA aaottM tka o«<a'lt oX a ZWct fftjr rtt rt 

Ail aii l w jy la tUtc 
. V jaa:r:4 <i«lkM« ItioaMi aahlavac roeti r»- 

•othwaai Mmar af Svj^oal and laili atr- 
.^^ »aa iUkaqm Boaat, itev* a^qr paliaa tar* 
• ;« «^ attevaUMl* anivMa «• boaoNl ia tba eld 


lAat tine he -visited Golden Oate. The building is 
now used as a ohoreh school, the new church heing 
on Filbert street. 

John Robbins, the stage carpenter of the old 
Metropolitan Theater, and qxiite a personality 
among theatrical folk and playgoers of the early 
days, lived on the southwest comer of IXipont and 
Washington streets in the happiest contiguity to 
Bill Craig's Scotch i^iisky establishment. L. £• 
Bitter, of the real estate finn of Hitter and Co., 
had his home at 417 Dupont street, between Bush 
and Fine, in the later sixties. C. L. Taylor, the 
State Harbor Coomissioner and head of the shipping 
and sommission firm of C. L. Taylor and Co., resid- 
ed for years at 513 Dupont street. Just north of 
Fine, but subtequently mored up to the south side 
of Bush street above Powell. Mrs. Rebecca Rich's 
boardin^house w&s at 507 Dapont street, opposite 
the old Taylor residence. 

In later days the more or lees celebrated 
"Eniekebein" house flourished on the southwest cor- 
ner of Pine and Sopont streets. The knlckebein was 
a beverage credited with great nourishing and 
soothing qualities. In its apotheosis it was a raw 
•eg dropped with the yolk unbroken into a glass of 
■arasohino, \Aieh, in order fully to profit the 

r, had to be swallowed in one gain. In the 
or garden variety of knlckebein the egg waa 
•mbalaed in a glass of beer, instead of in marasch- 

Contemporary with the knlckebein, but more widely 
renowned, were Brennan's Misfit Clothing Parlors on 
the northeast comer of Bupont .-md Sutter streets , to 
enter which the customer had to climb a noble fli^t 
of granite steps. Bat, the climb accomplished, one 
could secure the outfit of a Duke for about seven 

Apart from his phllantropy in finding fite for 
allegedly misfit clothes, Brennan achieved hl^ re- 
nown as a dog fancier. 

On the southwest comer of Bopont and Bush str- 
eets was the Ahlbom House, where many police ser- 
geant ■ KoA other single men used to board in the old 


Beneath It was the saloon knoim as the Sulssesse, 
'becaase It specialised in abalnthe served in the 
fozn knovn as a suissesse. 

On the northeast comer of Sopont and Batter 
streett was Wolff • erockerjr store. Oyer the 
store hang a sign depicting a volf of ohrious fer- 
ocity and the legend "Hungry for Trade." Tears 
later one of the sons went to Portland and opened 
a totally different line of hasiness, "bat found 
the same idea in signs to wox4c Jast as well there 
as it did for crockery on I]iipont street; and pro- 
hal>ly to this day that cadet sign of the house of 
Volff hangs out there, and the family legend pro- 
olalns him to he hungering for trade. 


In later days. Dr. Gustave Leipnltx-"the Snake 
Doctor" , with his drug store window full of snakes 
and other allurements occupied the Wolf's comer, 
and thus kept alive the zoological traditions of 
the locality. 

Across the way, on the southeast comer, was 
the Center Maxket with Joe Marshall's oyster and 
chop grill in the hasement. 

Also under the market, Just south of Joe 
Marshall's, was Eohler and Frohling's wine cellar 
with Its weird sine dogs as guardians of the steps, 
and its harrele and rats of now illegal comforts 
helow. It was at Kohler and Frohling's that the 
honazisa first achieved fame as a drink that q[ulckly 
cheered. It was a potent ooabination of brandy, 
white wine and angelica, already described in thes* 
columns, the effect of idiioh, were sometimes as 
speedy as they were ameizing. 

Ages and ages ago, on the northwest comer of 
Dopont and Bush, stood Jaooh Heizis' hotel, \diere 
Jake and his patrons flourished and fattened to- 
gether in a manner now comMroia'bly inpossihle. 

>•!•» fUki, V 

iL vmI^"'-'-' "niyppAY' w^* A» good it* tto 
Atj*n wapp9r wkM ihm jof 9f %h» toim ad %hm 


amif or vxanoi LDBJoa xi 

tc^jo^sv, with » Ombmi lMmM)B» »M tUt 
«nila4 » •««•• 4 «»U«i lar 

day. Wbo. , wui ft* 

WMWirt %• "^ iMiB son tea ' '- ~ ^ < 

ui Am tlM J^iMb Brills* y ati M«r* "^ ^^ 

who kM fftH««4 «teM« aMa^ 

IhA «h« iptxit of Iplinyiiui ttid im« Am «iM 
•pa*,- i«fl»a4, tm*'bIM« •thwfr.''^— •• - v.^.^,.,.: ^„'*- 
li ItaiiMt for Mdqr a dtMa* Ic 

fluffy aad •* • "^* ^ — - --" - ' ' - 
f AlTjr a aa a at'- 

OiUa War*-- ♦.-v ... ..-.,j« llMi «<♦>■ ->>^ 

awdl bat MM. 

0»«to w»ya ••'p«)>p^^ ;i^ vi^ al< n*A 

%ha •MPH&tv* *•" ' *'^*^ "s '»»>■• 

ill* bagra •*aaaa" 

bar %b« *|«MI *i Kiiff.l1 inii'-»t imm -jf^ ^HS^% 


Supper a quarter; 9uxida7t CMcken dinner— with 
■oup, oysters, flah, wine and all the comforts of 
a hoae— —35 cents. 

A veel^day supper was as good as the Sunday 
dinner, barring the oysters and the chicken. But 
Friday's supper uas the Joy of the town at the 


Friday was pancake day. Each patron was serred, 
as a special course, with a Qerman pancake as hig 
as a Victoria Hegia lily hlosson, and similEirly 
curled tip around the edges. Jelly hy the gallon lay 
arofund loose to pour over it, powdered sugar hy the 
2>e<dc. If a eustoBMr could eat two or even three 
pancakes he was welcome so to do— the more the mer- 
rier was the motto of house and guest on pancake 
day, Hohody e-rer hlew up. Everybody wa6 radiant. 
And, if on going out of the door, one turned for a 
Boment to the radiant chef and — clasping him warmly 
hy the hand—ejaculated "Aaht" or "Oh that jjancaket" 
the worthy cordon hleu returned the clasp with a 
great "but oily grip, and gave one a pancake twice as 
thick on the following Friday. 

In due time Jacoh Heinz* passed away, nnd the 
worthy workers from the shoe factories and elsevdiere, 
\iho had fattened there, sou^t jsastures new. 

But the spirit of Epicurius did not flee the 
spot,- refined, ennobled, etheralized a hundred fold- 
it lingered for many a decade longer. 

V-Tiere Helns* pancakes aforetlne "battened, the 
fluffy and wei^tless omelette soufle, whispered its 
fairy ■•••ai^ to sweet souls; small California 
oysters on the half shell snng^ed in their ley beds 
while beauty toyed among them with little three 
pronged foxks of silver, the four o'clock Sunday 
fthlfll'^tr dinner was reincarnated into a m i dn i ^ t oa&- 
Tasbaok, teal or widgeon— a nice cold bottle and a 
laall hot bird. 

Corks were ^-popping there all the ni^t long and 
the corridors rang with laughter. 

Ah, boys and girls of the old days, can you vm um 
ber the dinners at Marohand'sT Can you ever forget 



Aaggst 10. 1919. 


"I prajT 70U let us satisfy our eyes with th« 
■•■orials emd th« thin^ of fame that do r** 
nova this oity. 


Tslsgratih Hill is one of the inexplieahls 
■TSteries of San Trenciseo^ 

Its position is TiniqtLS, heautlfal and supefb. 
Its vista is nnrivaled in a city where the views 
are as plentiftd as they are enchanting. 

Anyone that has ever lived there has loved it 
forever thereafter. Yet nothing has ever thriven 
there bat the xmlettered Italian immigrant, the 
• Shanty Irishmaa" and the goat. 

Tiae was ^en every eye in the thriving city 
was directed faongrily toward the hill at every 
hour of the day. It was there that the signal 
station, with its lofty mast, perched, ever vigil- 
ant, waiting and watching for the ships that hr- 
<ra^X tha stalls and friends— parents— 'sweethearts, 
wives and children — froa "iMudc East* or old lands 
overseas. 7roB its aast were hong the signals that 
told >Auit manner of vessel was in sight—'barqua or 
hrig, warship, sideidieeler or screw stsaaer. 

Early in 1849 this signal station was erected 
en tha ■wmnit of the hill hy George Sweeny, brother 
of Hylas D. Sweeny, later of Hihemia Bank fame, 
and Theodore E. Boo^. It was a queer little two 
story cottage with a square "balcony on the roof, 
and from that balcony rose the mast and flagpole 
i^nee the signals were flnng as soon as a vessel 
was sighted. The concern was stxpnorted entirely by 
Toltintary contributions from the merchants and 
other residents of the city and was, by long odds, 
the Bost popolar institution of the earlier decades 
of tha pioneer days. 


In 1851 the service was inmroved by the estab- 
listeant of the Outer Telegraph Station, so'called. 


mk Fll»t l>»1»tft« '^^tiBJi*^ mk * tilwar A«7. sfhi^n anA 

qSMSllf f 


. :::.-' 

^^m.ju:! uxia ixao -^ei 

B^rt^n uea-r 

¥ift it vmmlmA a t 

tiki «M 



on Point lolJOB, ^mioe, on a clear day, ships can 
"be sighted when still many miles away. This e^eat- 
ly inproved the service, "because the Point Lo"bos 
station signals were easily dlscemlhle throru^ 
the telescope at Telegraph Hill, 

Unfortunately, however, there were fogs In 
those days, even as there are today, and these fre- 
(laently and entirely o"bscured Point ^©"bos statlAa 
frorj that on Telegraph Hill. On S«p»e«ber 23, 1853, 
however, the opening of the first electric telegr- 
aph In California— the el^t-mlle wire constrocted 
"by Sweeny and Bao^ from Point Lohos to Telegraph 
Hill— was celebrated ^^th fitting cerew)ny, and the 
difficulty of the foge was overcome. 

It was In connection with thle Telegraph Hill 
proposition that Sweeny and Ban^ establlthed the 
first Merchants' Sxehange, which was on Sacramento 
street near Montgoaery, and lAere were to he found 
nevapspers and Bagasines from all over the world. 

Vrrm time to time this exchange outgrew Its 
(juarters, and ne^ hulldlngs were erected for It J 
"but It remained a private concern, and Theodore 
Bau^ continued to' "be listed In the directories as 
■proprietor. Merchants Exchange," until the latest 


Meanwhile, Montgomery Hill, as Its early resi- 
dents called it, was regarded "by many as en Ideal 
locality for homes. It was close to the center of 
the city and as easy to cllm"b to as any of the 
other hills available for the same purpose. 

The Mastlcks, the Grannlssea, the Shellards, 
the Robinsons, the S, P. Taylors, the Oeorge C. 
Wallers, the Rosses (afterwards of Marin county), 
the ntehee.who lived had bosMt on the hill. 

Then also were the theatrical folk who found 
It convenient to have their dwellings as near as 
possible to Magolre's Opera House, and later, tha 
Hexropolltan Theater. 

The Booths lived on the west side of Calhoun 
street, between Oreen and Union, In a small housa 
that has now disappeared. 


QffftexAU fXK&zxr oLntB vo iooai*8 
BOKI ov ull 

aaiXtsK «p * mi%aM« lOMgm MMMllat ^ •^^^ 
pilcriJM %h»t "Svm dm ilkt loM of <^aSiM lf«A«s 
mk BirtA Bootiu* Tb« fltoir KM« ttet flMllr* 

iMft »» itat antvikl bM» «f Ibknr >«>»* 

i0»y t> l97llU taMVUIt Mrt * ^>«^«^ 

ttf Ue , «Ath xOwpM, wmiln mA 

\ QBM it KM a pab»M«Kl 1mhi» xwpliite v^^ 
i^^T^rtc VMdaiWMMM. Owre ^*'""» la »»«^-^' f^.Ai.v. 
Jvtitts 3Ta^», ^wlu Bfvlw ^«1« K 

Bo «r»w Bp ifcay »««'*l»* «>• ^^t« # 

g»v Jid Tti ^y> T^ *^_ 

teUi Mi tIdllMir ott MMilwii MiiS axt •* 

Mw vlfaKr w^ 'Vh« fMlly woca« «n< In * 

l«Ater tfm %im ^aira. mA cXIi* ^ !»«• «» ^M to 

qiOMl «f MM VMVd «P MM AUU, MA WT flllCVM. 

•took pr ttMrtda tnoi^^ '•» «» «3»m **• «*•••• 

It «M ft Mflidbl* PMAMaU W« of • iw»^- 
hale r«mm i t%; < 9J i %r * f*ir ??.«-tiMW %V»* -^t^ 

JigsA IX. - *— tM 

B«t«r r>« itt Mw ^ «i«ar 


Tlae and again our city father* have pondered 
over the propriety of ollniblng trp the perlloue 
■tape to »(here the great aetor had hie home and 
nailing up a ouitahle plaqoe annotinoing to other 
pllgrime that "Here m&b the Home of Jtmiua Bnitui 
and Edwin Booth." The story goes that finally, 
yhBn. the sltun'bering dramatic and oommeaoratire 
instlnets of those %*io «atoh oTer such matters 
had been aroused hy the arrlTal here of Harry Lau- 
der, the Scotch vaudeville humorist, and a "batch 
of high civic officials, with plaiiue, nails and 
haimner, complete, eventually did climb the step* 
with the intention of immortallBlng the cottage, 
they could find no stick or stone of it. Even the 
place \diere it used to he had fallsn down the 

Whether this account he imrely hen trovato or 
otherwise, the fact remains that the cottage doesn't; 
and there you are. 

let once it was a pleasant home, replete with 
hietoric reminiscences. There lived in homely fashion 
Junius Brutus, Junius Brutus Jr. , Edwin and Wilkes 
Booth, and there grew up Mary Booth, the daughter 
of Junius Brutus. 

It was an old-fashioned cottage, even for Tele- 
graph Hill, and very unpretentious. There was a 
square hole in the ceiling of the little entrance 
hall; and thither on occasion, Edwin, or Mary or 
some other members of the family would drag in a 
ladder fro* the yard, and climb up Into the hole la 
quest of sosM sword or some shield, mask or filigree, 
stock or buskin required for use upon the stage. 

It wsis a veritable Pandora's box of a hole, a 
hole remeiibsrnri by a few oldrtlmers that were child- 
ren then as a repository of incalculable wonders. 

And it is all gone — house, hole and actors — the 
glory that was Edwin's, the tragedy of Wilkes, the 
wall that never got its memorial plate from our city 


MMftia »r< 

«f ^t^ t^u MalAMKia of 

?S»i: n»i.i 1' 




VT9, Thayer Sarah Thayer lived at 415 

Oreen street, Just helow Kearny, the StacKhouse* 
lived opposite. 

John Stackii<m«e was one of the "best-knowi 
•oenlc artists of the early days, and Mrs. Stacks 
hoase was one of the most cheurming vomen— heloved 
of all the residents of Telegraph Hill, and a 
model of all the proprieties. 

Also had she "broader charities than some of 
the aore pronouncedly Christian residents of th« 
Hill, and opened her aras ajid pretended she knev 
nothing of yib&t the world was saying mHomo. a friend 
^o had "been kind to then in their earlier days 
cone to visit them in their little Green street 

The good women— who conld not toiderstand Mrs. 
Staokhouse's point of vleir— are hapnlly now all 
dead and playirg on harps where no such social 
afflictions may ever again harrow them. But lAen 
Mrs. Stacldiouse oisened her doors to Ada Isaacs 
Nsoken, in the day* of Ada's Moewluit too gllttex^ 
iBg glory. Telegraph Hill gapped ln«me sections 
and tittered in others. Of course that was vtry 

long ago. 

Bat neatly all the stars that visited the 
Coast in the early days, as well as the great 
•took actors, and actresses, yAio also fonzid Calif- 
ornia an 21 Dorado, found (jaarters, permanent or 
transient, 90me^^4lere on or near Telegraph Hill— 
ni«i— n. Samel and Jsaes Mordock, I^oOowan, 
M««tay«r, the Levis Balcers, Ellsa Blsoaooianti, 
Catherine Hayes, Lola Montes, Laura Eeane and all 
the rest of the great ones. And it was only natural 
that It should have heen so,, as stated. 
Telegraph Hill \m» convenient, had "the atnosphere," 
and is always healthful and heantifol. 

The Mastidcs' house stood on the southwest 
comer of Calhoun and Union streets, and was a 
place of great repute and comparstive splendor. It 
was hroue^t around the Horn f ran Hev Orleans and 
was made of mahogany. 



a X*l <*«^ ^* t*^ 


sxott ox uajLc^ '««« ^. 

•Sid Oal]M»«»i^ v'T AeV. ' 


Nahoigaiiy houses were as rare then as they are 
today* <uxd therefore, the Mastlok mansion ^las es- 
pecially famous. Subsequently, hoverer, the 
Mastieks vere teopted to leaTe the hill, and fin- 
ally they did do so. The first temptation, hoverrer, 
failed signally, and that to the suhsequent re^r^t 
of the Mastiok family. 


A man vent to Mastiok and vented to trade off 
a lot for the mahogany house, throving in a few 
thousand dollars "to hoot." 

When Mastiok and his wife took Sunday after- 
noon off to Tisit the place they saw a man putting 
T^ a hog fenoe around the lot across the street; 
and, naturally, Mrs. Mastiok would not hove any- 
thing to do with a lot adjoining a hog pen. 

The property thus rejected "by Mastiek was on 
the southwest comer of Market and Third streets 
and included the site of the Spreckels building. 
The hog pen was where now stands the Hearst 
buildlag* The story is feelingly told today "by 
Oeonge Mastidk, the attorney. 

Across the way from the Mastieks, on the east 
side of Calhoun street, lived the Overends. 

John A. T. Orerend owned the printing presses 
on Clay street, i^ere the Bulletin and other p»- 
pers were printed in the old days. His son was in 
tbt aaae Inisiness and his dau^ter was a school 

Colonel George W. Grannie, one of the partners 
of the famous law firm of Hglleck, Peachy, and 
Billi]igs, lired on Green street, between Montgomery 
and Calhoun; the Robinsons— the home of C. D. 
Bobinson, the artist — on the west side of Calhoun 
street, between the Mastieks and the Booths. The 
Boss house was on the south side of Green street, 
hetween Montgoswry and Kearny. When they moved to 
Marin ootmty, in the early sixties, they sold the 
place to the W. B. Agards, who lived there until 
the time of the fire. 


9f tftft •ftrtr 4«rt la (MLifomia* 

. : - "^ u:i niHr>'>OMM •Oft hn9 VMIa 9%«ia)j;p«i«. 

£wr >.c'. V jaijr tad iBtttUMtoaUr foy t)i« v ft JRw - 
loA h« had B»nt<Mi» aad. viUt hUi o«M Ids wif* aM 
imjMit, ^M wM OM of %lM kiaiatt and r--*' 
0mmdng «f wmiu Misf mnoM MU toyn i> 
Vbam nM aal Mffl«l«l af » rtMr«« Allow 

■''^^"- %o s«t ••UUUtod la hX» pT«f«»^ .. > 
MipaA la *% llM viaAoirt tel lav* did a 
Hay aat^lad daw %a ImalBaaa a»d 

to aaMacdH" - .-saaa «■ 

Vall«r h« ;ax' hui: 


of tka laaiiat 

QfpiMai AaytoB b4««* tU^aj? ««Mai ia mrmirt aX«ar 

M7, an?« 

TliA *t«^ \^i«ii aa %« vbatluDr tha 

V 10 live flra% ««k ar %m 1 4vai 



te tha 

AtiAV aalnliM 

diBoalalaft tha advani af 

an %n» ahaar Aa 

Tha aaoU^^.* ' laoldaa^ 

tfttaftUR af fSxnab i>Mi>-^>'^Mkr, aa^aitllad t> ia aarta 


Th* R. H, Wallers llred on th« ©aat side of 
Montgooery street, near Green, and the stoiy of 
their life there is one of the sipeetest roasnoef 
of the early d^ys in California. 

Judge Waller—aliiays one of the kindliest 
•ad ablest of iii«n«— came out here nell equipped 
eduaatlonally and intellectually for the profess- 
ion he had chosen, and with him came his wife and 
heipaeet, i4u> was one of the kindest and most 
^htLfm^ng of vOB«n* Misfortune fell upon them. 
There was not sufficient of a reserve fund to allow 
Vallor to get established in his profession. The 
wolf peeped in at the windowj "but lore did ivot fly 
a^ay, Mrs. Waller settled down to business and 
"baked pies, and the Judge went out and sold them. 
Thus they tided oTsr the erll daysj and neither 
the Judge nor Mrs. Waller erer felt called upon 
to oamouflase the business enterprise ^diereby Mrs. 
Waller helped to pave her husband's T>ath to 

The Wallers, it will be remembered, were leaders 
of the movement for establishing the Protestant 
Orphan Asylum here. Waller street is named after 

Aniaist 17. 1919. 

The eternal problem as to whether the first 
chicken vns hatched from the first egg or the first 
efig was laid by the first chicken pales into insi^ 
nifieant slupllclty In the li^t of that greater 
mystery? How did that first goat get tDon Telegraph 

Zoologists, may in tim«. find a fitting solution 
to the enigma. Suffice it to say that goats came and 
fattened upon the arid naJoedness of its outer preci- 
pices, ¥hen San Trancisco was etill young, and con- 
temporaneous chroniclers associated the advent of 
these creatures with that of a 3jeople of undoubted 
Milesian origin ^o lived with the goats, birdlike, 
on the sheer declivities of the hill. 

The ecHning of these latter was first incident 
upon the filling in of the Water Lots and the ins- 
titution of the Irish Men-o-war, so-oalled—the carts 
^iharevith the spoil was carried from lower Vallejo 

■..tJm ttel Mw ftom thi iMMVi of «li* taM%* 

fte*9 COM fttUt •ffAr«»* thtdt >m^9, vt 
Amti \h$ wmm ^ RIU. 

•tlikini; '^ooB lo !%• precsjuigiui ^'ua^b <b Mil 



M MM )y 

cot «»&%£ rrcK uut JsyitfinfB^ s>x \JGUKreiNir e.^^^ 

tnmsKn ox ztm jpsecipicsta «i^ ££« h«a» ctvaixcn oa 

•%M«« $»■ V la that 

t '•jwpvr artlAi«« ¥1^ aaaalt of Uimm awWW 
' ""^A iha ynlmmM vtetvia ^-^-^ -"*m$ ymf kvpA 

^<^wA..a« afcaronlalM of f^ltrngh Bii*.^ wu» «p ia 
Makt at t>M tSat »f th« stca^ flv** 

«dU tte ttllff AMlltn wM «i««iat 
at I >t III aaA y»wir «iA %1mi IH* mm • mi ^ •» v.^^ 

Mtoi*! a CffAl tdhMM «M imilTvi f«y p»|Ml«nsiac 
%l» •>•* «ii Salccnmli Blll« *f«M%UM MaMolisNl 
iQT tk» aMpitSiiff (^•fermWYT af t t m ay mA IwOi miA 
tnauf •mlac it tskd » plcMUPt y»««n« 

Th* IAm «m MUyUIiMA. A m|^^>i>-* ^ 
QnmuUk ttyaH «m diitgijA miA m^KI^' '<!■■ 

<A^^« Um ipYMlAMil, AttArvw Iidlrd th* wr AaA 

tuM ttlA Ob*m«.twa7 «m MilMgaA lal* ^ ; ^w af 1k1> 
ictloai —AA«a»al oMtlt, vlth — ■■■■ «f •%«•« %••» 


street and thereabouts to those onoe-sobnerged 
tidal lands that nov fonn the heart of the "busi- 
ness district. 

These good folk affixed their huts, or 
shanties, to the sewaJd slopes of Telegraph Hill, 
sticking them to Its precipitous walls as hill 
posters stick hills to a hoarding; and there pro- 
ceeded to raise faxd.lies. 


Ho cow could adhere to such sheer declivities 
as serred these worthy pioneers for homes: so they 
got goats from the Svl^^it, or \AereTer else 
goats eoBS froB* and thus planted the seeds of a 
war that raged for many decades "between the goat 
owners of the precipices and the home dwellers on 
the heists flibors. 

The trespasses and other derelictions of those 
goats, and the circumstances in ^ich they were met 
and fought and hurled from the helots of Chestnut 
street and elseiAere in that classic locality, hy 
the male children of the home-dwellers could not 
adequately he descrihed within the limits of a 
newspaper article. The annals of those comhats 
fattened the Toluaes %dxereln aforetime ^«ere kept 
the official records of the old Central Police 
Station, which records— with nearly all the other 
precious chronicles of Telegraph Hill, went up in 
smoke at the time of the great fire. 

While the cliff dwellers were growing in wealth, 
strength and power and the Irish msnro-war, or dump 
carts, were reclaiming acres of now inraluable real 
estate, a great scheme was STolred for popularising 
the area on Telegraph Hill, aforetime monopolised 
hy the shipping observatory of Sweeny and Bm^, and 
transforming it into a pleasure resort. 

The idea was materialised, A gravity raili«y up 
Greenwich street was designed and huilt. 7. C. Layman 
was the president, Andrew Baird the secretary. And 
the old Obserratory was enlarged into a sort of imi- 
tation mediaeval castle, with oceans of steam heer 

BftJA ©tl*MP HAtBHl^.tStS TrtVli-Tt t*"." y>$^ t* MRWk< IWA T?R,1.,3 : 

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and other attraotlona within its hattlemented walls 
for th» begailement to th« heists and subsequent 
entsrfcaioment of the money spinners who liyed helov* 


Oustav Walters, subsequent founder of the WI^moi 
and the Orphecm, was the original Castellant hat 
within a year he saw that there was no real money in 
the place and he abandoned his fastnesses for the 
lower Talleys. 

Thereafter, about 1885, Danoan Ross, the doughty 
swordsman, took over the place, vdiich for a few 
halcyon years thereafter was-^the resort of many of 
the hest'known sportsmen of SanFranoisco and visit- 
ors from all oyer the world. *^he view was Inconpar- 
ahle, the hreeze invigorating if persistent, the 
heer halngr and cool. John L* Sullivan climbed there 
and shook the hand of Danoan Ross on more than one 
occasion. The place was the haunt of Charley Mitchell, 
Pony Moore, Paddy Ryan and all the other li^ts of 
the ring during the Oolden Era of the middle ei^ties. 

Even the newspaper men of that period—and news- 
pcperaen are usually too hlase a lot to he attracted 
far from their husiness "heats" for purposes of re- 
fection and entertainment— would "blithely hoof it up 
the hill and have a drink and a hit of lunch at Duncan 
Ross*. And therehy hangs a tale. 

The days vhen such differences were settled hy 
duels were thirty years agone, t^n on one fated 
Sahhath Tred Klein of the Call, hrother of "Klein the 
AiMrioan," «ko was mixed up in the Samoa affair, 
"scooped" Trank Dtcpree of the Alta with a report of 
soBie spiritualintio seance. 

N«zt ni^t, in the presence of many colleagues, 
they met on the police detail in the old City Eall- 
now the Hall of Justice—wheire Dtzpree openly and 
forcefully declared that Klein's "scoop" was unethical 
and Klein himself was no gentleman. 

TOrther hi^ words on hoth sides ensued, and for 
a moment it seemed that hlows would he exchanged 
within the sacred precincts of the police detail 
reporters* room. But this calamity was happily aver- 


"'«<« (MUbi^t bKT* feMjT uTUffMny row OBjm. 

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M wnmo%*r of th» ^be 

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v^v^rtji- ^.»/ 'tit r,#t rum ^^wr vl ff i. 't kiH * 




Bluff Billy Hart, the famout water-front 
reporter was the interrening angel. 

"We cannot have any unseemly row here, 
gentlemen," he proteeted. "If this matter has 
got to he settled In a Christian spirit and 
in a gentlemanly way, ¥hy not come ttp to Dunfiaa 
Ross' and fl^t it oat in a regular ring, ship- 
shape and Bristol fashion?" 

Sreryltody agreed that the inspiration was 
hearen-hom. lamature signs of weakening on the 
part of the two contestants were quickly squash- 
ed hy their friends. In less thatn a Jiffy all 
preliminaries were arranged for a contest — 
Walter J. Thostpson was appointed Klein's second 
hefore he knew lAat the row wets about. Ji« \ftiitty 
of hA-pxij memory was chosen for Dopree. Billy Eart, 
as -oroaoter of the liiole affair, w^s mrxde referee, 
Mike Oeaury was to hare been tlmekeer)er, "but he had 
secpwatrated his watoh the previous day* so Al 
Movphy assoMd the duties of that offieial. 

The telephones -^re imt to woric, and the news 
was spread to erery office and haunt of the press. 
All the lir^s of Paoific Coast Journalism came 
harrying to Boncan Ross*. 

Donean had haen notified at the outset, and 
rose nohly to the oooasion. 

"Come along, "boys:" he "bade them over the tele- 
phone, "and I'll set up the drlaksx" 

Up they went. Joe Ward, Wallace Diss, "Jaokf 
Bonnet, Billy Record, Sackett Cornell, Billy Lyons, 
Jack Corey, Andy Lawrence, Ned Dement, Boh'by Capells, 
all the old brigade. 

As they climbed the hill in the moonlight they 
Joyously dls cussed the coning conflict. Prize- 
fitting was then a felony in California. 

Officer Reilly, luridLng in the shadows, overheard 
the conversation; "A fl^t at Donoaa Ross'i 2 o'clock 
A.M.: All the newspaper fellows on to it. Heavenly 
angels, here's ^diere I come ini" 


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MA mmi" 

xtnm «tf !»&««»«• B« Bot t la aU 

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Ana, loaAlr nsi*. eatknslMtitfalljr U>* oalMlnn 
«aMrafi«r imftt, iMlt tte fHiiiit 

iQdtty bitd «»t «xelt«d «»A Afwdt 
^ «/^«i7 la tlM WtUa vfail* DivTM tM 

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Softly, nolB«l««sly Officer O'Reilly stol* 
around the Hill and collected hie oomradee, 
Officers Morgan, Colllne and Ralnslmry. 

"Whleht, "boye: A fl^t at IXmcan's. We'll 
raid 'ea In the middle of It. Grip your gone, 
and come:" 

Mean^lle, all tmeontolone of these proceed- 
ings, the molders of pobllc opinion entered the 
ohsenratory castle and were received with open 


Doncan Ross was essentially a sportsman and 
a patron of letters. He not only heli^ed In all 
the preliminaries, "but also stcpplled each sec- 
ond with a "bottle of whisky wherewith to ply his 
principal between the rounds. 

And thus the fight hegan. 

It was the dickens and all of a fl^t. Hit, 
haek, hlodc and hew was the order of the day. 

"Snash his eye, Fred:" 

"Knock him In the jaw:" 

"Punch him In the wind, Frank, and he's yours." 

Thus, loudly and enthusiastically the onlookers 
encouraged their two friends, vdille the friends 
foo^t and "batterad. 

At the and of the second round, a howl went up 
froB Dt^rae. Jim Whltty had got excited and drank 
off all the whisky In the "bottle >dille Dupree was 
earning It In the ring. 

Ross came to the rescue with another "bottle, 
and the third round was proceeding "braTOly, ^Amn. 
crash went the front door and the four pollesaan 
dashed into the place. 

"Gents:" announced O'Reilly, "Ton are all under 

A moment later the officers realised the nature 
of the crowd they had "broken in upon and every one 
of them shriveled In his hoots. 

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Korgaa was the first to reco-rer hla presence 
of mind* There vab a fight going on, and it v>as 
on his heat* He had to see the matter throng or 
perish* So he pat e-rerybody under arrest* 

The sequel was one of the greatest comedies 
of lav and Journalism that nSTer was published 
in the nevspapers of the da7« 

Sonoan Ross swore that he would "stick hy the 
hoys." He gathered up all the money in the plaoe* 
some $60O-and pat it in a hag* He would ball the 
hoys out* 

Down to the Central Police Station they all 
Barehed. Sergeant Meier Lindbelffler was on the desk. 

"Heavens:" be exolalaed. "Vhat Is the storyT 
What's happened? Ain't ten reporters enought" 

Then he realised they were all under arrest, 
and looked for the heayens to fall* 

Wallace Diss was paroled and sped in quest of 
Police Judge "Whiskers" Campbell to come and grant 
hail to the malefactors* Then it transpired that, 
prise-fighting being a felony. Demean Ross' $600 
would not suffice to hail even one of them. Srent- 
ually, howerer, Jud^ Caapbell came along and 
fixed the matter, somehow. They all had to appear 
for trial the following Monday, hut they all forgot 
about It, and there that obaDter ended* 

The boys went across to the Aralon with Dancan 
Ross, and — each having borrowed sufflsient from 
Dancan' s -oortly s^ck of unused bail money to enable 
him to keep his end up until breakfast— everybody 
was hapny if pink-eyed before the dawn. 

The sequel occured one night about a month later, 
when some poor dronken sailor fell down a cellar on 
Sacramento street—which happened to be Policeman 
Morgan's beat — and was picked v$ dead, with his neck 


Long ere this Morgan realised the gravity of his 
faux pas in ever arreetiag the Saored persons of the 


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t'l that STTir 


navspaper bmi, and It was reported that be had to 
ham the wig he wore twice redyed dxirlng the weeks 
followlne the affair "becauee It went white with 
hie terror of the coneeqaenoes. 

Anjrhov, the poor dead sailor served all the 
pumosea the reporters reqjilred* The next day the 
papers reeked with details of a sickening crime 
on Sacraaento street—the dull thode of a police- 
man's dub on an unprotected skull, the groans and 
shrieks of a victim resounding for blocks around 
the district during the still watches of the nl^t, 
at an hour when Policeman Morgan was known to have 
passed that spot; "and yet this so-called officer 
of the lav protests that he knows nothing about this 

It was not until the Inquest proved that there 
was not a bump on the dead man's skull that the plot 
began to dawn vapon Morgan. 

A few weeks later the castle on the hill took 
fire and burned out. It was one of the most specta- 
cular biases of the time. The gravity railroad up 
the hill had failed and passed out of existence long 

Duncan Ross made broadsword contests on horse- 
back a popular Sunday afternoon feature of Telegraph 
Hill, and thousands used to flock thither to witness 
the oombats« until the sport grew stale. 

He and Captain Jennings, clad in anaor, would 
cavort about and hack and hew at each other, like 
veritable knl^ts of old, and with a clash and clan« 
of steel that sounded like a boiler factory. Shrewd 
blows were given and taken. Otherwise the crowd 
would never have gathered. But in due season the ex- 
citement palled, and even a crack on the skull that 
split the helmet and nearly finished IXinoan Hoss one 
day failed to revive the public Interest in the 
sport; and the last days of the castle on the hill 
were painftdly peaceful and dull. 


Judge Robert A. ?erral of the criminal court lived 
at 523 Green on the southeast comer of Union Place 
and was one of the very few legal luminaries that ever 

l«i<«7 Man MWll «£i 





had their homes on the hill. He ims quite a figure 
in local politics and about tovn in the eighties 
asul early nineties. 

Trank McOlynn, the real estate man, lired at 
1906 Dopont street, Just north of Chestnut, in the 
old days, and was then, as now, one of the promin<- 
ent figures on Telegraph Hill, thlfo^ mayhap he no 
longer takes sooh an active part in its happenings 
as he did about half a century ago. 

The MeCxlynns vsre of Irish parentage. Some of 
thsai were horn in Ireland, some in Key Torlc One 
brother was John A. Ho(>lynn, the recorder of early 
dayst another w^s the famous Dr. Sdward MoOlymi, 
pastor of St. Stephen's Church, New Tork, yibo was 
one of the most -oopular Catholic -nrlests in ITewYorfc, 
hut was solemnly excommunicated hy Pope LeoXIII for 
his alleged heresy in preaching the single tax doc- 
trines of Henxy (George. His exewoBRUiication was the 
ecclesiastical and politie-'il sensation of the middle 
eighties, and caused no end of difficulties and 
hearfbrrmlngs . 

The excommunicated priest oaae out here and 
lived with his "brother for quite a while after the 
unfortunate episode. Subsequently, yhitn the raepal 
delegate. Cardinal Satolli, came to America, the 
Moaiymi matter was sifted and readjusted. Dr. KcOlynn 
w»s restored to the church and died in orders some 
years ago. 

Frank MoOlynn now lires on Chestnut street, near 
Stocktont His nephew, Charles, son of John A. McOlynn, 
is in the Interial Rerenue Department at the Custoai- 


Henry Spannhaake, the elder of the old produce 
firm of 7. Behre and Company, lired on the east side 
of Kearny, between Union and Illbert streets. The 
Spannhaakes afterwards mored to the north side of 
Chestnut, west of Stockton, \4iere Miss T. Spannhaake 
reeided when she was teacher at the Union Ci 



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school on th« northw«at oomar of Filbert and 
Xs&rajr streets* 

Matthias Oray, founder of the nmaie firm, 
had his home on the southwest comer of Ii<noibard 
and Keam7 streets* The house still stands, and 
is one of the few reputed to hare been saved 
from the rarages of the fire by being sprayed 
with vine froB the cellars* The Bond'sohos lived 
on Chestnut street, between Dopont and Zeamy; 
but that house went in the great conflagration* 


Hovada7s, \ihon the industrious coppersmith 
or boilermaker has to dig down into his Jeans 
and drag a thousand dollars or so for the ess- 
ential player-piano, it is interesting to look 
back upon the good old times \dien the home of 
melody was on the comer of Third and Market 
streets, and the contemporary equivalent of the 
modem Jass band could be secured for a couple 
of dollars. 

Neither the player-piano nor the graphophone 
wsM then a practical invention* Machine-made 
music was scorned "South of the Slot" from Mission 
street to the Fotrero; but thousands of the boys 
who were gifted with musical souls would flock to 
C* C* Eeene's, in the Ifocleus building, for the 
harmonicas or accordions with viAoh they then 
wooed the Muse of Harmony. 

Conditions were then such that, with a couple 
of accordions and one harmonica, three gentlemen 
could organise a dance and famish their own music. 

Then, as now, nusie was considered a /^nteel 
accomplishment; and as the anklung is about the 
only instrument customarily played by the youthful 
minstrels of Central Java, sisilarly a Hichter 
harmonica, purchased from Keene's for 15 cents, was 
the staple lute and lyre of certain local social 
strata in the good and glad old times* 


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Therefore, Keene't was a great plaoe*^ a 
landioark in a noble city. Bat the Ihioleue 
Imildlng and Keene'e nasle store are memories 
of the past, and real hanaonloa artists, like 
the fifteen-cent hamonioas of their ttmefal 
day, are nov as rare, respectively, as the min- 
strel hoy and the harp that once raised revelxy 
at Tara. 


7ev persons ^o now pass that way realize 
^yfaat history was oade on that hlook of Third 
street, between Market and Mission; but oany 
who reflect can reaeaher the contrlhations it 
has aada to the chronicles of San Francisco. 

While the worshipers of Appollo patronised 
Keene's estahlishment on the street level, the 
derotees of Fortona paid tribute to her in the 
alluring saloon presided over by "Hard-boiled" 
Hany White on the upper floor. 

Roulette, faro, poker— almost any gtuae of 
ehanee a man might please— was ran, wide open, 
by "Hardr>boiled" Harry White for quite a apaa of 
years; and his genial face, raddy and benevolent, 
with its i^iite mast ache and military cut white 
hair, was oi&e of the best known in the distingais- 
hed crowd that freqaented the speed track at 
Oolden Oate Paxk and the ^<relc<nBing portals of 
Colonel Dickey's roadhouse at a period when nearly 
every man of substRnoe here drove his own fast 

Keene's was on Third street, at Market. Next 
door, to the northeast of it on Market at Third, 
WAS Percy Beamish, the haberdasher's, for many a 
lasts year leading landaaxk and guide to fashion. 

Beamish sopplied nach of the purple and fine 
linen to the young budcs of the city in the heyday 
of its earlier glory; bat he had no more pleasing 
patron—none that it was a greater comfort to adorn, 
than "his neighbor in business. Captain C. C. 
Eeene, ooameadant of the Sea Fraiioisco Hassars, i^io, 
in his glorious uniform, and his yellow pltime, at 

•rrr. 'T-TSUfflP TO i^rm 



the head of his dashing squadron, made a si^t 
for sore eyes at e^ery Fourth of July procession. 


Of course, Third street was for many Joyous 
decades the aorta, so to speak,— the main artery 
through which the pulsant flow of most great 
parades were pauiped from the great heart of the 
city "South of the Slot* into the reuliant welcome 
of Maricet street. The Yellow cars of the Omnihus 
line ran down its broad thoroughfare to the clae- 
sic precincts of Sotttli Park. It was the upper neck 
to the Long Bridge and later of Kentucky street-- 
the great gateway to the Fotrero. It was, in effect, 
the meeting place where San Francisco and "South 
of Market" met. The Nucleus hulldlng, with Beamish* s 
and Keene's on the main floor, stood on the dividing 
line, with Beamish* s in San Francisco and Keene's 
in its southern hemisphere. 

Below Keene's was the original store of Ton 
Londy, the Jeweler,, and a few doors farther south 
was Martin's Oyster House—the cradle, so they say, 
of the long famous oyster-loaf of modem coflBMToe, 
and a resort of great renown and popularity. 

It was therf or thereahouts that for a time 
flourished another restaurant conducted hy a man 
nmnefl Saris, ^dio subsequently opened the original 
"Coffee Dan's" in the basement of the huilding on 
the southwest comer of Kearny and Sutter streets. 

Davis was not only a man with a purpose—Ham 
and XsSB — hut also an individual of much distinct- 
ion and distinctive appearance. In fact, he was 
known to his intimates and others as "Beaconsfield" 
heoaose of the peculiar resenhlanoe he bore to 
that eminent British statesman. 

The restaurant nan never endeavored to disguise 
this resanblanoe; bat, on the other hand, by a 
judicious ammgMMBt of his curls and an equally 
Judicious selection of plug hats and cravats, 
materially assisted himself in naintaining a likeness 
to the gr«at Disraeli, who was (^leen Victoria's 
favoxi-te statesman. 





Kear*r Mission street was another restaAxrant 
of erstwhile widespread popfolarlty, vhi.6b. special- 
ised In "Two egee. any style, 10 cents." 

Needless to say, 'bread and batter and coffee 
were included with the eggs for a dime. Such 
extras went without saying In the old days. Where- 
fore the establlshnent, "being centrally located, 
did a thriving huslness. 

It was conducted hy a man named Regan, who 
contrlhuted to the richness of oar local Tocalnlaxy 
the onoe well-onderstood expression "to Reganiic." 

"To netcherlse" was a yrTa then newly coined 
in respect of "Pletcherlslng" one's food-B»stlcatlng 
It for a protracted period as recommended hy the 
specialist Tletcher. 

"Reganlslng" applied only to spoons and forks 
and referred to the process affected hy Regan's 
waiters when a customer wemted a clean spoon in a 
harry. As regards the details of that process, 
suffice It to say that the first part of it was 
analogous to, "but hrlefer than, Fletcherlsation. 
Than the waiter wiped the spoon on his apron, han- 
ded it to the customer, and there you are. 

It was from Regan's restauzcmt that originally 
•aaaated the terrlhle story of "The Waiter's 
Evyeage," which taught the hitherto untospecting 
rich of other districts to mind their "p's and q's" 
when they sou^t a cheap meal on Third street. 

Just helov Regan's, on the northeast comer of 
Mission street was Ointy and Blanchard's saloon, 
one of the most reputable estahlishments of its 
kind "South of Market" in the serenties and later. 

Dare Blaaehard was a quiet, unassuming man, 
with a heavy face, i^o custonarily closed tqo the 
cash at ahont 12 or 1 o'clodc at ni^t and walked 
up to his home on Langton street with the teney in 
his 350cket. H« ijalked in the center of the street 
with a pistol in his hand and nohody ever gave him 
cause to use that pistol. 

?¥« *af« *,iasa liKi £ v'tlST 

.^4^;:^ UA JoUo; 



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1 H 45 /7«L^ 

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Hit son JaaM« vat a vary ea3}a'bl« imisiolan and 
aohlered great conmerolal «ticc«i« with Blanehard'a 
Orch«»tr», of which he wae the oondactor. 


On the Boatheast comer. In the hasement, was 
Happy Jack Harrington's— quite a different sort of 
••tahllahment, with a dance hall and variety enter- 
tainment to attract the transient stranger. 

Johnny Tours, one of the well-known nnxslc hall 
entertainers here of the early days, was the chief 
of Happy's sisiT attractions. Another was Ellsa 
Eankinst Happy's own wife. 

Ellsa specialised In the can-can— a dance not 
entirely oomms U faat when Jridged hy Mld-Tlctorlan 
standards, thoo^ pezhaps not quite In the same 
class with the Shlamle dance of today. It %as dis- 
tinctly st«gestl-re in lots of ways and Involved 
Boae hl^ kicking and other details. 

'.«ien Happy Jack was feeling really good and 
friendly he would approach ^Aatever friend or 
acquaintance was near and clasp him warmly ty the 
>>y ii^ as he preferred the genle^ Invitation: 

*Toa must come down to ny place, ole pal, an' 
see my wife, Ellsa, dance the canrcan:" 

Outside this melodeon huslneas, Happy Jack 
achieved botm fame through "benevolence to newsboys, 
and after an unavoldahle visit to San Qoentln hecane 
a sort of henchsBun In his district for Paul Shirley, 
then warden of that useful Institution. 

Subsequently Happy fell upon evil days and 
reformed— at least he told the Salvation Amy that 
he felt refonsed, and was hy that hody put on his 
legs again as manager of a Salvation Amy coffee 
shop. But he disappeared thence one day, and It was 
tmderstood that he had "sllrTped from the water wagon" 
and In other respects retrograded. Anyhow, lAen last 
seen hereahouts he had lost a leg and had "become a 
"pencil-mooch" — that Is to say, he was o8ten8i"bly 
peddling pencils on Market street, near the City Hall. 
That was years before the fire. 



!-^ir 4r 







Photographars used to "be vexy plentiful on 
that 'block, "bat most of thaai flourished on the 
vest side of the street. 

Benjaadn T» Eovland's old Hew York gallexy, 
however, w^s at 25 and 37 Third street, on the 
east side jast below Stevenson, and was \4iere 
maay a pretty lady and many a dashing caivaller 
of the sixties sat and endured the agonies of 
heing 3)hotographed at a period idien instantazt- 
eous plates wers tnifaiiown. 

So much for the east side of the "block 
l>etween Maricst anA Miggion streets. On the west 
side of it— at 16 Third street — for years were 
molded from day to day the political destinies 
of San Tranoisco. 

James H« Widber's drag store was then on 
the corner of Third and Market streets. Vidber 
hecaae City Treasurer, and his son sooeeeded 
him in that office. A rocming-hoiise was orsr 
Yidher's store, and occupied what is now the 
•Ite of the Spreckels building. 

A few doors south was Tan Drady** tailor 
shop, idience, according to local reports, origin- 
ated the overlapping seaa that "becaae a pronounced 
feature of sartorial eleganoe, especially among 
the horsemen and "sports'* cf the eighties. 

Then oame "Ho. 16," the fnaous saloon, at one 
tl»e conducted hy Senntor Billy Donne, then hy 
"King" McMonus, and then by Kelly and Crinrnlns. 

The most famous regiae, of course, was that 
of "King," otherwise Prank McManua— who possessed 
great political sagacity. 


On one historic occasion, being belligerently 
dzunk and fvothing with indignation over soae 
sli^t, either fancied or well merited, KoManu 
■allied forth to the presbytezy of St.Patriok'e 

f^.nsMft- "r!*?*?? 


to? •tS" 

V 1 V . 


ayitcu'**;: e^.i.^j, 



Charoh around the oom«r on Mission street* and 
there announced his Intention of palling down 
the Imildlng about the ears of the pastor* Father 
Peter Qrtj, 

McManae had a supreme "poll" with the police; 
Init Father Grey was Father Grey, and with Sergeant 
"Black Jack" Spillane in the Southern police 
station "the King" h*d ahout as much chance against 
the priest of St.Patriolc'B as the proTerhian snov- 
flalce in the furnace. He ^^as a hadly battered King 
by the time he got back to his own headquarters. 

He also on occasion Bade great bluffs of attack- 
ing editors of papers that exposed hie methods; but 
he nerer returned to the conflict after being kicked 
out of an office, ^et he was for years a leading 
influence in San Francisco polities. 

Before he took over the Thiird-street house he 
owned the Union Hotel — a worklngman's boardix^ 
house on Michigan street, near the Union Iron Works, 
in the Potrero. And no nan could get a Job, or hold 
one, %rlth the Union Iron V/ozks Tinless he boarded 
with King M<d<anu8, and also spent plenty of money 
at his bar. 

In time. Jack Welch, subsecpiently the sporting 
referee and all the rest of it, saw fit to go into 
the sane game. He opened a boarding-house that took 
in all the boys of the San Francisco Rolling Mills 
close by; and then the fat was in the fire. 

The "Hell's Half Acre* at Michigan and Twentieth 
streets, tAiere the ri^ral boarding-houses stood, be- 
oaae the scene of combats so ferocious that the batt- 
ling Titans may be said to haTS merely bandied 
Cytherean blandishments by comparison. 


The prinelpals nerer oasM to blows, but their 
followers passed no opportunities. 

On a certain historic occasion, one of Jack 
Welch's adherents, named Qalla^ier, went into the 
MoManus stron^iold and there demonstrated his con- 
tempt and contumely by shooting the hands off the 

ad dlA h* ft. 

^^^^«-«.4 that h« "'^-' 

^^HTUi* plant, Vb« 

ef !»• i'9r^mmUK in, b5 

A* firvl 

>f t«U tf %kr •■' "**■ 


»5 »acj:» ~i«sf 

^H^ LSb^ <>VV.>'' 

ji7 " V .1 " 


olook on the "bar. 

So elated did he feel with hlmaelf orsr thle 
achievement that he etraightvay proceeded to the 
Lotus Club, a few doore eouth, entered it, and 
■hot up the place. The rnembere—all gentlemen of 
colox— fled their crap gasee and their cards and 
leaped, of one accord, out of the windows. 

It was a sensational day in the history of 
Ho. 16 and the Lotus Cluh; and Gallagher was sen- 
tenced to a year in the County Jail as a result 
of i%. Tortunately for hln, his term concurred 
with that of many other distinguished personage* 
^dio were then temporarily "behind the "bars for 
▼arious reasons. Richard MacDonald of the Pacific 
hank^ wu one of these; Ben Hapthtaly, the police 
court lawyer, another. 

At first glance, the spectacle of the police 
court lawyer hehind the h&rs almost noahed Oalla- 
^ler with anacement. 

Naphtaly was heseeching Denny McCarthy, the 
captain of the night watch, for a drink to quench 
his perishing thirst i and Denny mn ewearlng hack 
at him. Presently Denny unlocked the hars on 
Hagihtaly, and growled at hla to go to the water 
tscp under the stairs and help hlaself . 

Radiantly the lawyer obeyed. Then Oalla^ier 
ohserred that there was a "beer glass fall of 
Khlsky "beside the tap and a ^fink in the eye of 
Denny McCarthy. Simultaneously he realised that he 
need not gire way to despair. 


It ^Mts during the Kelly and Crlmmins regime, 
howcrer, that Al Murphy discovered and imnortal- 
Ised that other distinguished sage of the Murphy 
clan — Blinker Murphy. 

Blinker was the conteaiporary and political 
ally of Ex-9upervlsor Mike Coffey, and author of 
the hack-drivers' world-renowned motto; "If you 
can*t get *em coming, get 'ea going." 

It will he remeahered that at Hlshapur, eight 
centuries ago, the iMortal "Tentmaker" with his 




FiMiMn !>•*' 


■^ 1 si^^rtf-wnr juscxflwr"^ 


i3» 4«a^^ 


comrades, Nlxanial Malk and Hassan bezi Sabbah and 
other seekers after knovledge, sat at the feet of 
the Imaa Mauffak and from his lips learned wisdom* 

Similarly at the feet of Blinker the Sage, 
gathered other neophyte x>hllosophers of the hack 
drlT«r« erudite caste: Comheef Vflmlen, as his 
Qmaur, Tatty Kahoe, as his Assan, "Garibaldi" Jim 
Eieman as his Hitam* All came to the Nishapor of 
16 Third street, and with them were Owen Kenny— 
Pattl's haokaaa, \ibo truly hoasted that the dlta 
woold drive in no other Tehlole while Tlsitlng 
San Franc lsoo~—Goelo-eyed Charlie Carr, e^^coaofamaa 
of Senator Frank Newlands, Doughnat Pat and many 
another i^ drove hacks when aatos were unborn. 

Of all who gathered about Blinker the Imam it 
was Doughnut who In one respect most resembled the 
author of the Hubalyat. Of Otaar they said that his 
real niUM nay have heen Qhirath ad-Din Abol Flath 
Ttear and some more, hut that he took that of 
"Khayyam" —The Tentmaker— hecause tentmaklng was 
the trade of his father. 

Dou^mut Pat passed to glory without revealing 
any praenomen or patronym other than that by ^iloh 
he was known to Blinker and his other colleagues. 
Belike his parent was a "Pat or a Doughnut". 

August 31. 1919. 

Persons idio have enjoyed the benefits of good 
religious training «Aien they were young will recall 
the beautlitil if occasional apoczyphal tales they 
used to read on the subject of Providential inter- 

Missionary accidentally dropped trtm asroplane, 
alights in midst of starving cannlhal trlhe. Is 
about to be slain and cooked idien volcanic eruption 
eztemlnates tribe and uncovers pirates' cache of 
canned truffles and every other iuxury, leaving 
missionary in state of perfect content and safety. 

Sometimes the reverse happens: 

The original Gexman hospital stood at Brannan 
and Third streets, and was a very isiposlng briek 
structure. One day in Higust 1876, the hlock was 
swept hy fire, and the hosplted was wiped off the 
faee of the earth. 


^fe *.*•■• r '•-^. " - i^iixV'siA". li* 





y ? 


Unacorched, tmhaxmed, itanding alona and rm- 
•ollled abore the blackenad aitath of desolation, 
one small 'building sttrrlved the e&tastrophet its 
ovner walkixig to and fro, ttpon his lavfol oooasions, 
throTi^ the still smoldering emhers of the en- 
dreling ruins. 

The house thus blessed and miraculously pre- 
senred was but a htunble shanty. It belonged to Wing 
See, the Chinese laondxyman, «ho did vaahing for 
the ships that lay off-shore and the sallox^nen lAio 
csas up Third street frmn the landing-stage that 
used to be near ^ihere the Southern Pacific depot 
nov stands. 


Eighteen hundred and seventy six. 

Third street In mor* vays than one. It was that 
year which sav the dompletion of the Grand Opera- 
Horose on Mission street, just west of Third, which 
the Third street boys proudly regarded as a play- 
house of their own. 

The histrionic triumphs of that great teiaple 
of Thesplt belong to other ohroniolest the Uliad 
of its eonstrvctlon, however, pertains almost sob- 
clTiaiTely to Third street. 

It was on^the comer of Third and Mission 
streets that the workers foregatuey«d at morning, 
noon and ni^t. It was there they met and fratern- 
ised with the indigenous citizens; beoaose the 
brioULayers of the Qrand Operarhouse war* all brought 
oat from Chicago by the contractor, vho put up the 
structure for Dr. Wade. 

Watching %ham at their toil and fraternizing with 
than thereafter— ^extending such pleaajmt hospitalit- 
ias to the stxangera aa the adjacent hoatelrlea 
permit ted— many popular and diatinguiahad personages 
of Third street tarried often or. the Mission street 


rx-nvrtmn u ^ iaLki. Vf nuam .xir* 

"rJTOi^iut >ari riP »f fHKa^r 



*3aa 4%. ry* 

CI^ KAXRiZm BT (lOr^^KK!) 



Phil Crimalns vas on« of thoai. Then ther* 
\nT9 the McCoy brothers and the Hyan hrothert- 
now attomayt ~ Mike Donne, Jack Cleary of 
the ^aoiflo Qas and Xlectric Coopany, and a 
score of others or more* 

The hrlol^layers were plain Mt affable 
men, rather almple-minded, as Judged by the 
sophlstioated hahitues of Third street, but all 
good "sports" In their vagr, and nost of their 
earnings went on cards or billimrds or other 
Saaes of the tine and place. 

One of the men was knowi as "Chiek." He 
would gamble on anything, and had great skill 
and Judgement. It was popularly understood 
that he was only a brick-layer by courtesy, end 
held his Job for the sole purpose of gambling 
everything possible out of his fellow wozkere. 
Whether thit assunption was correct or otherviae, 
the fact reioains that he assuredly ooinpleted the 
alleged purpose. 

On the southeast comer of Third and Mission 
streets was the Amerieus Club, a Democratic 
association organised in opposition to the Eepub-* 
llcan Howard Club that had its headquarters 
lower down the street on the comer of Howard. 

Former Tire Chief Dexmis SulllTan was one of 
its leading Benbers. Others were Jerxy MoCarthy, 
Pat Ourran, the two Neils, Jim and Stvre, who 
were no relations and who always fou^t when they 
met. Jia is father of Frankie Neil, fomer cham- 
pion of the li^twelghts. Senator Villiam H. 
Villlams was another familiar figure in the Amerl- 
eus Club. For the past twenty-fire years he has 
been door-keeper at the United States Mint on 
7ifth street. 


Another famous club in that section was the 
Horace Jackson Club, which was on Mission street 

Iaa *5ii^ 




'A i -.I'^rL- 

•ate Mitt -x*^- 

'^/»<L'i" t\^\*t':\*^'*i'iSf SlM 




Just east of Third, where colored gentlemen and 
their friends could get together over a sociable 
game of craps, generally without bloodshed. 
Seekers after the truth who ai>e endeavoring to 
recall the historic figure after whom this club 
was named will be saved trouble by the informat- 
ion that the Eor&ce Jackson Club was named after 
its founder, a most distinguished colored waiter 
from the old Palace Hotel, 

More renowned than the Horace Jackson Clob, 
however, was the Lotus Club, on the southwest 
comer of Third and Stevenson streets, i^iere, in 
the sporting parlance of the locality, all the 
colored gents on the west Coast met fourways 
from the Jack. 

To the Lotus Club belonged the real Haute 
Tolee of our colored aristocracy. It was conduct- 
ed by Hen Morris and his son Ed; both retired 
Pullman porters. 

The motto of the establishment, as enunciated 
by Bave Stuart, the gifted chief dealer and craps 
expert of the establishment, wast He \<ho enters 
here leave soap behind. We'll clean you out." He 
said a "Southern gentleman had written the motto 
down for him," and he understood it was by "a 
Sage minstrel named Dant." 


Great prosperity and comparatively few troubles 
eharaoterized the career of the Lotus Club, \Aiich 
now, alas, exists mo more. In a preceding article 
one rather famous shooting episode therein was men- 
tioned. Another, unhappily more serious affair, was 
the death of Dempsey Vigfall, who fell out with Sttre 
Marshall and Andy Williams over a colored lady named 
"Miss Mabel" and was by them stabbed to death on the 
dub premises. Andy received a life sentence as a 
result of that mishap. 

%4 te fmm> 



The Lotus Club was on th« u;pp«r floors of 
the establlshnent* Belov, at one time, mm a 
■aloon conducted "by Tom Tregallis, who naxtg 
"lAilte Win^" divinely and vho later h^d the 
saloon on Maricet street equipped vith devilish 
electrical traps and dsrlees—notahly a seen- 
ingly lost dollar that inas left lying nagli^ 
ently on the oounter. Whoever tried to piok 
it tcp got an elect rio shock that set hia 

Subsequently, after he had left Qrant 
svsiusi Hany Majrnard conducted an estahlish- 
■•Bt of sorts on this comer. 

Some curiously interesting saloons vers 
to "bs found in that part of the vrorld in thoss 

There was "The VftialSf" for exaarpls, on the 
east side between Stevenson and Jsssie streets, 
where steam heer was served in enoxnous schoon- 
ers and i^iere bologna sausages and pftnapemiokel 
bread were served in the original skin and loaf 
respectively. The customer out off all he liked 
and swallowed it or took it off in his pocket, 
Just aa he pleased. 


The temptation to steal the knife axid fork 
was offset by having those implements chained 
to the counter. 

On the west side, near the comer of Howard 
street, was the "New York Casino." There, on a 
Saturday afternoon, a patron could secure all the 
crab he oared to eat and a glass of lager, all 
for a nickel, and enjoyed the further privelegs 
of being s-ble to read nearly all the Hev Toxk 
newspapers, as well as other periodicals from 
Eastern cities that were kept on file in the es- 

*The Chiaf," was a resort a few doors iiearsr 
Howard, while on the eomer in the baseawnt was 
a plaes known as *Ths Sagle*s Hest," \disrs a 
meal, served with beer or vine cost but 10 cents. 

tW* '■■ ^THRWTm. 





of ^nr^ 


G«oree Taylor, a Saoranento politician, latar 
oame doim to Third atreat, bou^t tha "Eagle 'a 
Haat" and traaaformad it Into a "political" aal- 
oon, with prl-rate conaultatlon and conference 
Tooma and all the other eaaentlala of a flrat-claaa 
political haadqaartara. Then ha eatabllahed himaelf 
therein and aettled down aa a political "boaa. But 
•OBMhov "the hoya" gare the place the coXd ahooldar, 
and Taylor had to quit and retiim to Saoramento. 

Then the Salratlon Array got the plana and It 
heease local headquartera of that very worthy Inr 


Colton'a httlldlng, commonly called the Oolton 
Houae, waa on the same aide of Third street, bet- 
ween Howard and Tehama. 

SllTerman'a dry goods store, quite a pretent- 
ious eatahllahnent for those days, occupied the 
two stores under the Oolton House on the corner 
of Tehana street. 

In those days the Qnnlhtts Line horae oars 
changed horses at that comer, so the store was 
wall situated for display and custom. 

The car stablaa vara farther west up Tehama 
street, and tha ears ran fro« tha foot of Third 
street— which then ended at Berry— op to Market 
and then ria Montgomery to Jackson street, idiare 
the turntable stood about opposite the original 
store of 0, 0. Ourtin, and close to the old Metro- 
politan Theater. , 

The horaea were changed at SilTerman's comer 

on each outgoing trip. 

Close by was the original ladies' fumlshing 
store of I. Magnin. But in those days the store 
best belored by the ladies thereabouts, was that 
of Mrs. Marks, on the Saine side of the street Just 
south of Mission, whither went the pretty girls 
with their new frocks to get Dolly Varden hats to 
match them for the Sunday picnics. 


»": T >?Jid'r' r^'lH iffiBCfW W9Pl?SJi J •- 





Those vera ths daya of tnistlss, and IJolly 
7ard«n hat a and plenlea. 

To eoona "back to the Tlelnity of tha Coltoa 
hlook, there was C^ioiim, tha hattar, yihoae atlff- 
rlamad flat plllhox hata mm faisad all Sooithr- 
ofo^farket* Qolnn himaalf waa one of tha noted 
eharaotera of Third atreet, and that had maoh 
to do with the pornilarity of hia headgear. Eia 
baainese earda were treasured for their heaaty 
of -ooetic aentiment; the poetry heing encircled 
with atara soiae thing thia way: 

* SoBA 3>oet8 fl^t to win a name, * 

* Sitppose they do, what natter? • 

* Z am contented to aing the faae, * 

* Of <^xinn, the 3d atreet Hatter i ♦ 

Deasy Brothera* shoe atore waa on the aaae 
aide~~~JereBiah and Ccmeliua Deasy, Patrick 7. 
Holan, \iho firat worked with Holcool) and Kaat, 
opened hia original ahoe atore on the east aide 
of Third street near Market, viiere Lundy'a 
Jewelry store subeeqaently flourished. Many will 
iWMoiber the ruusnoth hoot that atood un the edge 
of the sidewalk, as a aign to the estahliahment* 

Another fomooa ahoe atore of the old daya 
Mmm ToB Eesdy*a, on the south side of Miasion 
atreet, Juat eaat of Third, tether all the young 
bocka South of the Slot repaired for the hi^i- 
heeled Oxford tiea, without which no aelf-reapeot- 
ing leader of fashion would appear on the floor 
of any dance hall of the place and period. 


Healy'a shop was Imown to erety manofaeturer 
on the Coaat, becauae it waa the resort and ren- 
derroua of all the ahoemakera in the country. 

v,r? W*^ <*o««»l«ii^ •!?*• 



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pU tf MRP 
%h* tfA 

MMtTiraiWIB fBOM '^^wvy 

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* f| f y^»^^ I*. • T t ^', ^' 


In those days th* •hoemakers w«pe highly -lald 
workers. Wherefore they used to keep Saturday 
night and Sunday In a hot fashion, and on Monday 

they felt . Well, they called the day Blue 


Wherefore, instead of goine to vork, they 
strolled down to Ton E«aly*s and angaed ahoat 
cahhages and kings and cognatic matters, while Ton 
went ahead with his work, only ceasing on occasion 
to gire advice when so requested. 

The place in time hecajne known to the trade as 
"The Hardly Abies," all hecause whenever a hoss 
would come seeking his help there on a Monday, as 
often happened to he the case, the answer to his 
request would he the saP>** 

"Can't you come up to work today, Jim? I'n 
pressed with a Joh to deliver," 

The answer was almost invariahly, "Well, I'm 

hardly ahle." 

Tom Healy himself was a most industrious man; 
hut he had a kindly way, had read nach and the 
hoys liked to have him for a referee on every to- 
pic of argoment. He died long since, hut his son 
and successor still lives and flourishes, and is 
the father of Police Lieutenant William T, Healy. 


The Howard Cluh, a prolific nursery for local 
Repuhlican politicians, was on the e outhwest cor- 
ner of Howard street. More young men graduated 
from the cluh into the rsuake of accepted politici- 
ans than from any other inetitution of its kind in 
San yranoisco. Many of them achieved power. 

Aaong the well known personages who could have 
heen found there directing the political destinies 
of our city, were such men as Phil Crimmlns, Lew 
and John Usher, Barney Doherty, Senator Jim Craven, 
now in the Recorder's office, the Br/an Brothers, 
Will and Eddie, Ed Prior, superintendent of the 
Pacific Oas and Electric Co., Charles <>xigley of 
the Pacific Rattan Co. , Hike Kilday, ^o now has 
a ohrome mine in Santa Clara county; Thomas Perry, 
Tom Brown, for several seasons catcher with the 
Kew Toiic Giants; Dan Klrhy, the oarsman; Artie 
Ashcua, and many others. 




OX i-;^ !Sfi^ 
any b« 99* 


f 9r Dm TadM «» 

1/ «te 


S#.^t*.Tnber 7. 1919. 

That far-fltuig 'baimer vhloh sallorraen la 
all tha S«v«n Seas describe as the Flag of 
JeTU»al«nt "floated over many portali along 
old Third street, hut over none more famoue 
than thoM of Uncle Benjamin, >Aose establieh- 
Dent floforiahed on the east side of the logr 
hetiMen Tehana and Clementina streets. 

Uncle Benjamin vas the father of ten sons. 
The family i»s "hfoined out in the great fire 
at Virginia City in the early days and sou^t 
pastures new in San Francisco. 

To those tmskilled in the matter of penn- 
ants and bunting or the technical expressions 
of the men \ibo go doim to the sea in ships it 
may he as veil to explain that "the flag of 
Jerosalen" is the endearing tern hy vhich the 
sailoimen refer to the old coat or old trousers 
cnstOBarily hong as a sign cmtside a second- 
hand clothing Btore. 

Uncle Benjamin vas not nearly so renowned 
for the value and variety of his hand-me-downs 
euB was Coleman, the Irish-Hehrew pawn-hroker 
on the southeast comer of Third and Jessie, up 
the street, who specialised in Overcoats. How 
Uncle achieved his repute was vicariously 
through his son, Joe Benjamin, who was admlttedr 
ly the cleverest peddler and bargainer that ever 
traded as traveling representative of a pawnshop. 


Joe would start of a morning with a ^m&ar- 
load of Jincrack Jaoanese furniture— "bamboo and 
willov hook-racks and flower stands and the lik»- 
and call on the wo(men-folk of the various homes 
about the city %4iile the menrfolk were at work. 
He could mesmerise all and sundry by his blamey- 
ings, and was notorious for the exchanges he 
effected, many of which threatened to disrupt 
hoMS. Souvenir rings, oameo brooches, gold watchr 
es. teeth fillings, ancsstral silver spoons--- 
whatevsr trinkets of value Joe learned were in the 






house, ,tho8« he ohaxned out of the lady) and he 
left in place thereof some perfectly Innootiotis 
hat-rack or "boolPTack worth anything up to 
thlrtjr-flre cent*. Many men still living reiaein- 
her Joe Benjaadn's abilities with feelings of 
profoond regret. 

Coleman's, as stated, was another well-biown 
supporter of the flag. Bat the porshaser of an 
orereoat from Coleman had a better ran for his 
money than the person \Aio swapped Jewelry with 
Joe Benjamin. Oob could alirost anything eoncei-v^ 
able in the overcoat lire from the tmorthodox 
Hibernian— one that was little more than a waist-> 
band and three buttons for 50 cents to a real 
stunner for $30. 

While on sartorial subjects it is as well to 
recall Davis, the tailor, \iio kept his shop on 
the east side of Third street, between Minna and 
Sherwood place. Be has gone to his fathers, bat 
his son, now located in the Sunset district, does 
most of the repairing of uniforms for members of 
the police force in that part of the town. 


Third street knew many tailors of the Davis 
elnu There was Isaac Davis on the west side 
ab«r« Harrison, and Zsadore on the saae side 
below Harrison, and others, no doubt, that one 

The original establishment of Joe Poheim, 
the tailor, was at 103 Third street, between 
Mission and Hiima streets, with the rival estah- 
lisfanent of J. Bull two doors below. 

Thither flocked the young bloods who desired 
to be "the real cheese" in the matter of sartorial 
adornment— ;?ents idio were connoisseurs in spring" 
bottOBied 7>ants, and in coats with gold-stone butt- 
ons, wide bindings and scalloped pockets, and who 
were especially tricky in their tastes regarding 
vests with tumdrywn collars and cunning littls 
pansies woriosd thereon in /genuine silk, and all 
by hand. 


Jo« Poh«lm*t e«tabll8hiB«nt eift^rwards "became 
ft flourlBhlng concern at various addretee* north 
of Hazfcet atreet. Dr. J. F. Poheim la hl« soa* 

On the southeast comer of Third and lolsoa 
streets originated many great Ideas, Including 
that of the ordinance which now compels people 
to take off their hats in SanFrancisco theaters, 
whether or not they hare manners enou^ to do it 
of their own accord. 


Dr. Antonio Rottansl, father of the late 
Supervisor, Dr. Rottansl — author of the "hats 
off in the theaters" ordinance—had his home, 
offices and drag store at that comer. Leopold 
Eottansi, Inventor and manufacturer of punches 
and other "beverages, which he vended at 635 
Washington street, in the sixties also resided 
there, as also did fflosue Rottansl— one of the 
first men to try and prodnee Callfoml|i champ- 
agne on a commercial scale, ^ose offices, in 
the seventies, were on Market street above Sixth. 

Just below Rottansl 's comer, at 325 Third 
street, was the residence of the late Willlaa 
T. Sesnon, at one time County Clerk. It was there 
that Father Sesnon passed the days of his youth. 

Across the street from Rotanzl's, on the 
northeast comer, the Golden Em Social Club 
occupied the second floor. The members of the 
Golden Era Cluh were athletic young men %dio mos- 
tly aspired to shine as hoxersj and the walla of 
the club-rooms were literally covered with port- 
raits of ehaapion pogilists and pictures of 
faaous encounters. 


The old Hibemia Hall was on the west side 
of Third street, between Clementina and Folsosi, 
and was, of course, the rendesvous of all the 
representative Xristasen south of Maxket. It i»s 


rt^ /%'f! J 

►? *f Vsnet AacJlfKt 'Jrfls* * 

' "T^ i^ ., ^Vfft » I'* I^tJwv 

'rrtf^Xi'* i» r «<m;'U I ( 


4 ^ ,k^«k« W 


tha headqriarters of ths Ancient Ordar of Hibttx^ 
nlans, the M<^(ahon (Grenadier Ouardg and many 
another faaous orgaaisatlon; and, next to 
St.Patrlek's on Mission street, was the mott 
laportant spot In all San Francisco on evexy 
17th of March, helng as It was the fountain 
head and origin of eTerythlng genuinely aM 
proalnently Irish on that moet hlessed annlver- 

Of course, San Francisco has long since 
fallen from grace as regards the ohservaaee o& 
that erstidxlle greatest of holidays. Wherefore, 
even If the old hall survlrad. It voxild now he 
of little more immediate political or social 
laportance than the Km of Tora. But the old 
Hall, and Mrs. Hohlnson, who owned It and kept 
lodgings In the apartment adjacent to the meet- 
ing place, all helong to the past. 

So also does Cole's llvexy stahle, lAiloh 
flourished aforetime under the hall and the 
lodgings, and %fa8 \^ere the teams from the adj- 
acent stores and huslnese houses t/ere hoardUtd. 

Al Cole did a prosperous huslnesR there In 
the old days, both as a livery man and a stock 


It should be added for the "benefit of future 
historians that the Hlhemla Hall was not hlgot- 
edly reserved for the exclusive uae of "The Pope's 
Irish," hat was the scene of many gay and Joyous 
gatherings of outside associations, as well as 
"being the regular drilling place of others. 

The "Hanoodc Sailor Boys," a political organ- 
isation that wore a he»<?:ulllxig v^lte duck sailor's 
uxilfom, marched at nl^t "by torchlight and att- 
ended political processions of every kind, made a 
ease in point. They were essentially an Amerlcaa, 
as distinguished fros a professionally Irish org- 
anization, and were fanous for the fancy ezhi'bltlon 
drills which they gave to various towns and cities 

r«, aaiA fMK ttel tei« 
SMft; » ttrt, «M «»• PW- 

nib •f Bmi 

OUEUXKX in Via -^ < 

TSV W^T*„'i'aT PJ'.lW5flT. 

lldx«A iAm •»»«*•« tte tUvax £U>»et ju'^jb^c^ sat* 


thron^out the State. Maziy li^t-hearted pranks 
attended these excursions} hat the worthy hargb- 
•rs of Santa Hosa got qtiite cross t^ien their 
town clock was sissed Just after the Sailor Boys 
took their midnl^t departure, and from that date 
their popularity began to wane in the small towns. 

Prohably the surest cachet to hi^ society 
South of the Slot, was the possession of a gold- 
filled tooth from the dental parlors of Dr. IT. T. 
Vhitcomh, whose estahlishment at 205 Third street, 
Just south of Howard, was very properly regarded 
as the apotheosis of all that v/as "cead mills 
fail the," or "comme il faut." 

The fonaer of these expressions, it will he 
recalled, htmg hi^ and large in the Hall of the 
Hihemians; the latter was always on the lips of 
the heaatifol young ladies \dio took lessons in 
French from Monsieur Delatour, at 241 Stevenson 
street, just off Third. Naturally they got mixed 
and were used indiscriminately hy aspirants to 
culture and aesthetioisa in the days ^en the 
cult of aesthetics was new. 

Dr. Vfhitcomh at one t ime represented the 
district in the State Iiegislatcure. He was a man 
of dignified and attractive appearance, with a 
heavy hlaok mustache, and was hahitually attired 
in the conventional "Prince Albert" frock coat 
and glossy plug hat of the period, the waistcoat 
set off hy the daszle of a massive gold chain. 
His son. Dr. S« E. Whitcomb, now resides on Haight 


Froa a professional point of view, no doubt. 
Dr. Vhitcomb was a model and a pattern. Spectaeur 
latlx considered, however, he was "no class" when 
compared with the gifted artist \too styled himself 
"The King of Dentists" and was the idol of the ch- 
ildren \^io attended the Silver street primary sch- 

•!«••!(> / ^iuum^ lA »^£.»<i CSS, 
* '..•vk .w -:Km Ir^ft^r 11}c> -. 


id «Ai 

^rj'ii !"■ -yiy ^; V ■*■*'•:; ■'ft * 


This dsll^tfol and aost \masaal potentate 
had his realm on the oomer of Third and Harrison 
streets, and there, in state and glory that would 
ha:ve aade Solomon look like a rag-picker, he 
appeared in his royal haittushe each noon tljae and 
picked oat the teeth of the children going hone 
to Itmch, with a grace and dexterity that vere enr 

He wore kingly rohes of velvet and ermine, 
carried a Jewel-stadded scepter and wore a crown 
that was positively a corker. He was no conaaon or 
garden hreed of dentist that drew out yoar teeth 
with a forceps or a corkscrew; Imt a master artist 
yiho invariably used either a sword or a ^Aip in 
his attack upon the offending molar. 

Heaven knows how he did lt« With a regal sweep 
of the rl^t arm he would tuck his scepter under 
the left, then snatch up a ^diip, snap it in the 
air while the primaiy school pupil sat in the den- 
tal chair* Snap it again, and there — Lo: — the 
youngster's tooth, picked swiftly from the lash of 
the whip, was in the ™5n;^,rch'8 royal fingers. 


Alternately it i^s the slash of a sword. Again-* 
Loi Presto: The quioknees of the hand deoei-ws the 
eye. On the point <f the sword sticks the hiouspidt 

Ah, those were gladsome days. 

Amiable, bantering, eondesoending, the potentate 
jollied the little boys and girls, and the dear 
little darlings took to daring each other to have a 
tooth out, and gallant little heroes took the dares, 
and hopped up in the saored reoesses of the barouche, 
had a tooth out and became immortal. 

Miss Jennie 3mith, the principal of the Silver- 
street School, issued edicts and mandates forbidding 
Ohildren to tarry on the way to luncheon. Bat what 
aTBileth the edict of a teacher when there is a real 
king draviag teeth and selling tonth-naste on Ihicle 
i*s hlghweyT And would you have them horxy past 


eoB4»iesC^i9ttAT li^SW 

i=iiv w;* jritf^r pi-'M. 

JVIf Oi 

Vi i\U4Ji 

-rer I*'' 




the . 


nr AA %:» . 

^»jSJt:;r«.? ' 





.Aflli «r< 

: a bur 

r tIaM fta 

Mad aavtr Um %i«i» «HkL^ 

m» th!! 


oonttBMliously vhsn his majesty Is lieseschizig his 
JuTenlls friends to hare their teeth out, ajid 
actually presenting then with his royal cards to 
hand to their parents iA«n they get home« so that 
these parents— when their teeth go wrone— will 
know the ri^t place to goT 


Many a good and stalwart cltiaen of this great 
■etropolis has now a hiatus %ihere a good tooth 
cn^% to he heoause he flouted the advice of Miss 
Jennie Smith and dallied with the King of Dentists 
on his \ny to lunch from school. William D. Boms, 
patrol driver at the Richmond Police station, who 
has now a family of his own, wears one such cavity 
\Amt9 a perfectly good tooth tuied to he hecaose of 
the fascinating lure of that potentate. 

Why did the children always tarry? you askt 
Vhy did the exhibition never pallT 

Because the King of Dentists, apart from his 
skill as a prestidigitatsur had consummate know- 
ledge concerning the psychology of his youthful 
worshipers* He concluded each and every exhihition 
hy tossing a handful of dimes and quarters among 
the crowd. 

?TOtfll'bW 14. 191?. 

"East is East and Vest is West, 
And never the twain shall meet.* 

Kipling is alri^t in his way, and knows all 
about his job ¥hiBn he sticks to such subjects as 
India's coral strand or the soldiers of the ^leen. 
Bat any of the old boys that lived south of Mazkat 
in the halcyon days of the seventies could have 
told Kipling with his eyes shut that >Aien he was 
trying to pat over this East not meeting the West 
line of stuff he wtas simply talking throu^ his 
hat. Unfortunately Kipling never even saw Market 
street until some yvsors after the mischief \m» 


% ayvsATK^ . 



tor ft' 


Ifharsfore, nov, ths vorld ranalns tttapttd in 
ignoranoa of the facts tl^pl^ 1>«0BaBe Mpllng 
did not knov. 

Vhy, it Mta up Third street that all the 
paaeengers ease froa the old Pacific Mail 
dock. They drove in vehicle* of every sort, 
fron the steamer tcp Brannaa street to Third, 
and then up Third to Maxfcet, and to into the 
heart of the great city. 

Every hoat from the Orient 6A?ri«d in all- 
oat 1500 Celestials, and at least as oaay aore 
of their friends used to crowd dovm from 
Chinatown to meet and greet them on their land- 

That was East meeting Sast, you mi^t ssgr* 
Bat wait a hit. 


In those days every aoellaatised Chinese 
wore his hadge of wealth and freedom in the 
form of a low-crowned, stiff-riomed hlack felt 
hat. No true denisen of Chinatown considered 
himself properly equipped, or in good form, with- 
out one, and they cost anywhere from $5 tqyward 
per hat. 

The Chinese thus equipped drove up from the 
docks with their friends, and thus came the glo- 
rious opportunity for the young bloods of Third 
street and its tributary thoroo^ifares and the 
MM ting of the East and West, uhioh was outside 
the pale of Rudyard Kipling's philosophy. 

Ambushed at every comer along the way, the 
boys of the West awaited the passing of the 
Orientals. Then, with merry \Aoops and haloos, 
they darted forth and snatched awey the coveted 
stiff-brims, clapping, in «P Bh « n ge, TQ>on each 
outraged head a well-worn straw or battered derby 
of some unknown vintage. 

For a little \Aiile the unfortunate Celestials 
sou^t Buroeaee from their sorrow by taklnga new 
toi%% along Second street. This venture, however, 

worse than leaping from the frying pan into 

«i-. Jr■^•w: 


th« flr«, 'because the boys followed them thither 
and lay in wait on the Harrison- street bridge. 

From this superior vantage ground they would 
drop rocks and great clods of earth on any driver 
yjtio failed to halt on their command. The Chinese 
vere despoiled more utterly than thitherto. Where- 
fore, in despair, they returned to the minor hor- 
rors of th« Third street roate and suffered as 


The idea of avoiding the trouble by wearing 
less attraotire hats — or no hats at all -~ 
when they went forth to receive their friends* 
never seems to have occured to them. 

Third street in those very early days ended 
at Townsend street, where Berry street then began. 

Vessels of the United States Navy, revenae 
cutters, lighthouse tenders and other craft found 
a safe aiKshorage in what is now the thoroughfare 
and warehouses etdjoinix^g the Southern Pacific 
depot. All day long the boat landing at the foot 
of Third street, Just below Berry, used to be 
crowded with officers, marines and sailors froa 
all the seven seas, arriving from or returning to 
their ships in the stream, \diile Caesar Biuns, 
idu> conducted his establishment a few yards up 
froBi the landing, at the northwest comer of Third 
and Berry, carried on a roaring trade with the 

Caesar's place was nosiinally a grocery store, 
with the then inevitable saloon attached. As a 
■atter of fact, so far as the grocery end of the 
liasinsss was concerned — the tail wagiged the dog. 
So long as Caesar had a oustoaser, for his cigars, 
cigarettes and steam beer, any unfortunate seeker 
after groceries in the front store had to cool 
his heels and whistle. 

Occasionally the stock of bacon, or flour, or 
vogar, or some other staple, would run out— a 
eiretasstance that caused no worry whatever to 
Oaasar Brtms, no matter how it mi^t worzy his 
customers. But his stock of beer was ever as ftdl 

H« tug. 

•V.«^A UC 



and faithful aa th« widow'* eroM, and thara w«r« 
alwayi eigart and eigarettaa aplanty. 


Down Townaend etvaat and alaaidiar© adjacent 
were lunl)er yarda, hay lAafft nilla and lariofc- 
yarda that all sent their quota of thiraty workera 
to Oaaaar'a store. Thither alao nonrened the atont 
and hearty hoatmen* ^o drove a land-office huai- 
neaa ferrying aailormen to and from their ahipa 
and the Third-atraet la n d i n g * 

And aplendid charactera were aome of these oiar 
time ferrymen. 

Big Torn KodboHum waa one that will he long re- 
Mrt>arad, with hia red ahirt, and hie redder faea, 
his hearty ▼oice and hia cheery amile and hia 
al^njfn aaart end trim Whitehall boat. 

Tom wia prohably the heat-knoun and moat popa- 
lar man of the \Aole jovial crowd. Hia hoat waa the 
first choice of all shipping men who made a trip to 
aome veaael from Third atreet, and he was on the 
moat genially friendly terms with nearly every 
akipper and aailoroon In the harhor. Hia work hrought 
him into contact with persons of all kinda and from 
every come? of the world, and^ like Jack Bunahy, he 
waa a man of parta aa well aa one of muscle, and waa 
ready to famiah an opinion on any subject and at 
any time. 

Tom McKelvay, the humhoat man, was McHamara'a ^ 
only rival in fame and popularity among the sailora. 
Ha aupplied the men on ho«urd the ahips with fruit, 
Togetahlea, milk, cigarettea, tohacco, newapapera, 
«ad all the rest of it, and was one of the handiest 
Ban with a hoat ever aeen in the hay. Roo^ or fine, 
and he could he aeen in the heavieat atom, with hia 
Whitehall hoat loaded to the rail, delivering their 
ahore delieaoiea to the aailora. 

Ha Mia known to take hia hoat thaa loaded from 
Third atraat to the vharf at Yallejo without using 
oara or rudder all the way. With aail up, he could 
ateer hia craft hy moving fore or aft or ahiftlng 
hia wei^t from aide to aide. Ha was, in fact, a 


f^\\^A. *> ^ A.%^. .■..AM ■ >k-, -• ik- W .k. ^ 'I 

V»lMa wM m* of t 

MM «f «h« AMt pTCBlMSl %9BiM. 

ijw «UA l:aMsdr9iT»9^ u 


viiard aaong San Fraaolsoo water man. 


Tha foot of Third atraet was, of eonrM, th« 
noTBtry and snorting headquarters of all the groat 
local oaramen of the early days, and the starting 
place of evexy hoat raoe. 

The Neptune and South End Hovlng cltCbs were 
hoth at the foot of Third Street. The California 
Boat Clnb was on Berry street, nearhyj the Pioneer 
Rowing Club on Longhrldge idiieh was vlrtoally a 
oontlntiatlon of Third street. 

Alex H. Robertson was president of the Calif- 
ornia and Thoaas J* Oeary the secretary and treasa* 
rer. Conversely (^eaxy was the president and 
Rohertson the secretary of the Oakleaf Rowing Club, 
which had Its headquarters on 7olsom street near 
Steoart. The Cedlfomla Boat Club, however, w»s a 
rowing organisation—athletic pure and sljsple— 
whereas the OaUeaf was foziMd for the purpose of 
"Ixiylag, selling and renting boats, and all things 
necessary to a first-class rowing club." 

The Pioneer was the first of the rowing cltibs, 
and was organised in 1864. George E« Strong, of 
Oaway and Co., the poblishers, was one of its most 
proBlnant presidents in the ssTenties. "Big Sd" 
Belacn was, for a time, its traasorer. 

Helson was one of the most noted of the oarsmen 
of that period; William A, Coulter, the marine 
artist, was another; Bob McDowell, one of the oldest 
members of the San Francisco police force, still 

Fred Plaisted, who has been for over thirty years 
one of the most prominent trainers of college crews 
in the last, used to race in the single sealls here 
tmdar the pseudonym of Fred Brown. His last race from 
the foot of Third street was against Bill Daly of 
Tallejo, by \Aiom he was defeated. Austin SteTensoa 
was another great Vallejo oarsman whose aahiaramanta 
snatched many a prise and purse from local oarsmen 
on the old Thirdrstreet course. Con Lynch and 
Sugene Flanders were two other champions of the shells 


.cc- ssa vfii 
rs<H5 •Tit fyjw 


long prior to th« delnit of Henry Peterson, who 
WM not heard of- iintll the early eighties* 


Another good oarsman of the early days was 
Tom ^ing, \di08e mother kept the hoarding-house 
on the northwest comer of King and Third str- 
eets, i^loh Was largely patronised hy the men 
fron the Pope and Talhot Imnber yards and the 
yauPdBan of the Southern Pacific. King street 
at that point ran parralel tc Townsend, between 
Townsend and Berry, vdiere the Southern Pacific 
depot nov stands* 

Pope aad Talbot's original lumber yards and 
saisaill were at the foot of Third street, where 
still earlier In our history vers North's Ship- 
bailding yards* And long before the big rowing 
races used to start and finish at a line between 
Pope and Talbot's wharf and the opposite shore, 
the foot of Third street was found to afford a 
most conyenient swimming place for all the small 
boys of the nei^borhood* 

Sarcln's restaurant was on the southeast 
corner of Third and Berry streets, diagonally 
opposite Oaesar Bran's grocery? but the farorite 
feeding place of the oarsmen and sailor folk was 
the ohop-house at 808 Third street, between the 
landing stage and Sareen's, whidh was conducted 
bgr a genial Italian known as "Johnny Killardarfly." 

Johnny's chop'house boasted a sDlendld cook- 
ing range, with beautiful big copper pots and 
boilers for tea, milk and coffee, rioe and Teget- 
ables of every kind, dear to the heart of a blue- 
water sailor* It was clean as a nev pin, and was 
kept along lines then considered uncanny In their 
sanitariness* Mine host had but three fingers to 
his ri^t hand, but with these he waged war Inter- 
minable upon the flies that were frequently the 
pest of the place. Hence his sobrlfust* 



As toon as a fly dared li^t upon his ccmnter, 
•vat would go th* thrse-flnger«d fist, vhile "bet- 
vesn his elinohed teeth numbered the doom words: 

No fly eTsr survived that three'fingered swat. 
Ellla'-da*fly Johnny's name however, was Charlie, 
Charlie Rat to. 

Catering for a wider trade than the chop-house 
belov at the grooezy across the street, fiot^anelster's 
fruit and vegetable stand had the sallonaen coming 
and going, and also held the peculiar^ select and 
profitable trade of Elnoon Hill and South Park. 
These sallied thus far afield in quest of their 
rarer fruits and vegetables, in the serene oonvlet- 
ion that each ship that came into this port bearing 
fruit or garden truck of any kind had the pick of 
its cargo smuggled up to Hucloneister's by the fore- 
mast hands. 

In the same block, and with a similarly exten- 
sive clientele, was Dan Twin's stationezy shop, 
lAiere a customer could pick up practically anything 
in the line of note pa3>er new books or other 3mbllc-' 
ations that he could expect to find in the most ex- 
pensive of the Montgomery street storeB-44ontgomexy 
street being then the central haunt of wealth and 
fashion in San Francisco. Dan, it should be mentioned, 
was himself a peculiarly knowledgable man in the 
matter of hooks, and thus drew about himself a pleas- 
ant following of customers* 


Next door to Twlgg*s place was the crockery 
store of the Duffs— a courteous and kindly English 
eoi^le \Aui, as well as the coarser household crockery- 
ware then in vogue, kept charming sets and single 
pieces of Venetian and Florentine glass, fine English 
and Continental porcelain and choice pieces from 
China and Japan. 

On the southeast comer of Third and Bryant str- 
eets was a vezy famous place— the grocery and har of 
Albert Heyer, who afterward beoaae Supervisor and 


Rlfi arfMfhicaaahl ;o- 

T '.'iljiiTiaPtt TI5S2I 



^nflM Cnls u6VB Vm AlAi rtv ts 


nMn ih«r ^4a«# caAttM* 0«1Ib» 


' air .'^T'- u%Mi ftHEHfs 


vaa for many 7«ar9 City Treasurer. 

Heyer*a nae the rendesToas of all the heat 
known residents in the locality, including the 
tig toen of South Park, which then formed with 
Rincon Hill the ultra-fashionable residence sec- 
tion of the city. 

It was a hospitahle sort of spot and the 
nei^hors made themselTes at home in the hack 
parlor \idiere a hig store was burning every cold, 
vet ni^it, and vAiere a friendly game of poker 
helped the gentlemen so inclined to while away 
many & pleasant hoar. 

Many a subsequently prtMninent naa lolled in 
the comfortable chairs that lay around— (xeorge 
Pooltney and Joseph Smith of the South Paxk 
Stables; Red Earrigan, who was thsn a ship calker 
and %dio a few years later became famous as the 
lesullBg partner in that merry teas known as Earri- 
gaa and Hart. Be could dancs like a wizard and 
relate endless funny yams in those good old timet; 
but nobody ever suspected he would some day make 
then gulp down the deeper emotions he stirred in 
thousands of hearts as "Old Larender" or "The Poor 
Relation. * 


Then there was Joe Vatklns, another Calker, 
and his son, San, \itio became a great oarsman; and 
Oua and (reorg* Belno and a host of others who 
were all hail-fellowa-well-oet at Albert Heyer^a. 

And when politics or other buaineas called 
Albert afield, there was young 3ill Heyer-eqoally 
co\irteoua, equally tactful and genial— to kaap 
thinga going along the even tenor of their way. 

Bat that waa all very long ago when South 
Park and riincon Hill were in their heyday, aad 
life was quite different to what it is Just nov. 

Out in the Sunset district, the residents of 
a aaotion, wither, then man repaired for the pur- 
pose of shooting quail or rabbits, the ?ailc-Preai- 
dlo branch of the Saa Traneiaoo Sariaga and Loan 
Society la naaaged by WilliaB 0. Beyer. Be ia the 
MOM Bill Beyer \iio managed Beyer's atora at the 
tlas Albert Beyer waa running for the office of 
City Treasurer* 





>• Bltiitor i^ 

mA «lMln3»3r 









t^ rftVaw* 

•mtti «krtagiai 

•s th«gr «*r» «i*Mft «- ^ 


SiwntiiBTaar 21. 1919. 

Men are atlll alive In Saa Traafllseo \itiO can 
recall vlth more than mere aoademic Interest the 
once commonplace hyoerbole, "going hone with the 
adlk." The modern theory, likely to hacoM vide- 
epread, that the expression it analogoos to the 
aphorisia anent "hring home the hacon," it lAolly 
erroneous and ill~founded. 

In the good old days ^dien the original expr- 
ession had a significance lAiolly and Joyously its 
own, the «<<iv»«» was a regular and rmlTersal phe- 
nomenon of the pra e repasoular noni. His wages 
svBragsd $30 a month and he worked for them, st- 
arting early. Wherefore gentlemen and ladies of 
the literary, dramatic and kindred professions, 
lAose various engagwnents kept them ahroad after 
conventional office hours, would customarily meet 
the nllk»aa "beginning his day at the moment they 
were tominating theirs, and like as not exchange 
greetings with him on the hosM doorstep. • 


Oft times on such occasions it was the milk- 
nan's steadier hand and fresher eye that helped 
curh the halMng recalcitrancy of the latchkey 
and coaxed it to enter and even turn in the elus- 
ive keyhole. It was from sucjh preciously Intimate 
rencontres as these that the term really origina- 
ted, and it nothihg whatever to do with ""bringing 
hoae the hacon*" 

Khence came the miUanan? Third street. 

On the northeast comer of Third and Hoi»rd 
■trwets, opposite the rooos of the once fawms 
Howard 01u"b, stood the original "Ban Baoke*," or 
MlllcMUi's Exchange, whither every night, in the 
V— am.* hoars, foregathered the milknen from all 
their rsnote hsonts and lairs, and with them came 
their saucy carts and their sturdy little horset 
fi ffA the glittering and resonant milk cans that 
coald "be heard clanging from Third street to the 
Twin Peaks as they were flung einpty upon the re- 
sounding p ar — e nt e« 

..,-i .-I.V 

vtv,-. f.vta ''5hB %*j^pt •»*? ^o nT* 

19 UM 

siflUB maB <v flBUff 


.,'?:?ta*LS- p* "St** ' -menffi py 



RjQhtJ -(/v^^ 

),-^ .^.^- .hat •*^-" •*'"^ *^ 






In th« d«7tlB« this Ban Racket nas to all 
effects and porpoaes an ordinary comer grocery 
and saloon. Bat shortly after midnl^t, ^dien 
all ordinary people had gone to hed, scores and 
hundreda of nilk carta would come clattering aiid 
>f^ i g<T>g up the converging thoroo^rfarea from all 
four quarters of the globe, and dlagorge their 
nocttimal drlTara at the portala of the exchange. 


Within those portals, at that uncanny hour, 
all iMts hustle and actirity. A great hig range 
stood at one aide of the establiahment, and on 
top of it seethed tw great copper "boilers, one 
of hot milk, the other of steandng coffee. St- 
MMiiig hot fresh "buns were stacked hi^ on great 
platters. When the rain pattered outside and tha 
chill winds of winter lAistled among the milk 
cans, within was the boge wood-stove cheerily 
Imming, the comfortable hi^ stools to sit upon, 
the carpet of the very "best saw dnst. 

In walked the customer and grabhed one of the 
"bl^ tng» that stood ready for the oocaaion, filled 
I* aa "beat ha pleaaad with his own proportion of 
■ilk and coffee, scoffed a hot "bun from the invit- 
ing pile, and "became hapoy. He could refill his 
mag of coffee as often as he liked and tuck away 
all the huns he could swallow. Tha amount consumed 
nattered nothing. The price was ten cents. 


And this ^orious privllaga was not «onopol- 
ised hy the mUkaen. BTex7T)oay was waleoM. Toun« 
"bucks of the period, fresh and hungry froa the 
dances at Hihemia Hall down Third street, or 
Ixora Hall on Miaaion atreet, or Union Hall half 
a hlock up Howard street, were all equally welcoaa. 
MaiV^ were tha ngs kf coffee and many the hot hroim 
"bana that swains Just accepted or rejected hy their 

JHMUM'* '"--V-^ >t W>t » Ml' 

4«r v.- <^% •-'- >^*'» -^^ 

A fM 


*1» i »;■• 


jiQim fiA 

<y .lu •VftiitlU ten* a^ «l« 



/ jor 

ifS^ Q£ ^xxiti. ^i-iX^ ZMiSi. iiri»e-,r ^t^^mi '^ma agaeanp. 


heart's desirss, betwan waltses at ono of thosa 
tMples of TeTpaichor*, alisorbfld In tha kindly 
■haltar of tha Mukiian'a Exchange to fortify hia 
Jogr or arsuiieata hia dajaetion. 

A ftiyt doora weat ot Third atraat, at 716 
H«wurd, waa, in tha aixtiaa, tha raaidanoa of 
John H, and (>aorsa E. Eoaaatar, vtio, aa Hossatar 
and Co., condaetad tha vina and liqfoor IniBinaaa 
at tha aouthwaat cornar of Third and Maricat atr- 
aata, whera John E, Vidhar sobaaquantly had hia 
drag atora. 

Thay oobaaqaantly vant into ahoa findinga 
huainaaa at 546 Maxtot atraat and Etovad thair 
residenoaa to tha other side of tovn. John H, on 
Stainer atraat, and George on Suttar near Polk. 
Thay vera raapectirely the father and tmola of 
John H. Roaaatar of the I&iited Stataa Shipping 
Board and he^d of the Paoifio Mail Co. 


Opposite tha eratidiile home of tha Hoaaetera, 
at 715 Hovard atraat, wae the rasidenoe of Hlohard 
Cluff , one of tha Clu^ Brothara \iho oonduetad 
grocery storaa here in tha old daya, and fron yiaom 
the preaent ^^lesale fini known aa tha tfilliaa 
ClTiff Company ia, ao to speak, daaeandad. Jaaaa 
Clnff la hona waa at 44 Third atraat, Williaa B. 
Clnff at 146 Tahaaa atreet. Just aaat of Third, 
over one of hia grooezy 8toraa-~-CltLff and SaVltt'a, 
idiioh vaa on tha comer of Third and Tahaaa. 

Between Tahaaa and Claaantina, on the waat aide 
of Third atreata, was tha firat atore of tha Graat 
Anerican Tea Coapaay Either all the hoaaawi-rea 
aouth of Maxloat— or nearly all— naad to rapoir for 
thair povnda, and half povmda, and flTS poonda of 
tea, with an elegant present thrown in with every 
IRurateM* Naay an honeat hod oavrlar or gaa worker 
liM BafTar toaialMd anything waxnar than ataoa 'bear, 
imlaaa tha weather waa oold and he WaS taking hia 
drop of Irish hot, fonnd himaalf with tea anoo^ 

.*;i4^i4l ei-"- r^.«4*j'v 

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L& I.XI43 

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ra /~>J6iJl 

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to float a 'battl0-8hlp-~if the t«a vara properly 
bravad— 'owraly 'bacause Mr«« Hod Carrlar had baen 
hyjmotiMd by the beauty of a best guaranteed, 
inportad and handrbloim glaaa spaxgna that mbm 
praaantad absolutely fraa and vlthotit atrixiss of 
aiiy kind to ayeiy pirohaser of v«heelbarrow loads 
of tea at the Oraat American. 

From First to Tenth street the ladies south 
of Maxfcet flooksd each Saturday nl^t and fought 
for these priceless gift apezgnes and other suit* 
able souvenirs. 

The tea oootpany, hovarer, was but a soulless 
corporation, ^dieraas the laajority of establish- 
ments on Tliird streat vara controlled by Individu- 
als with striking personalities of their ovn. 

For example, on the northeast comer of Htmt 
street ymo Bill Solan's saloon, vrith his residence 

Mr. and Mrs. Bill Dolan co-Jointly tipped tha 
scales at a trifle over a quarter of a ton, and 
idien they sat in their decorated barouche at a 
St.Patrick's day parmde vera tha dali,^t of all 

There vare fine men and women in those St.Pat- 
riok*s da7 parades, and fine plug hats, and fine 
banraelMS and fine horses. But Bill Solan's four- 
qxiart plug hat was the shiniest of them all, his 
basracushe tha grandest, and the team of blaob- 
pointad bays he drove behind was the noblest in 
alX this great city. 

Tea MeOord and his family lived on the west 
side of Third street, south of Folsooi, and the 
boys all grew up there. Robert is now dspaty 
registrar of voters, yotmg Tom is with 6. M. 
Josselyn's, tha ship chandlers, and George is 
secretary of the California Soor Conpaay. Gilbert 
and Sdward MoCord lived on Hitch street, near 

Jamas Winslov, who later became boss staradora 
of tha 0, and 0. Steamship Company, had a saloon 
on tha same aide as tha MoCords, nearer Folaom st- 

Lower down was Frenk Bakaart's gunsmith and 
•Mnnition store. He waa an Sn^istaman , and his 
gems vare of great repute. His son, Philip B. 
Bakaart, is president of tha P. B. Bekeart C<»ipany. 






Hoartay yM CoagroTe*a fruit and rsBsiabl* store. 
Th« CosgroT«8 ver« a larg« faaily and very popular 
In ths neighborhood. 

It xas not difficult to heeoss popular on Third 
street. A Kind heart and an op«n hand vent far there. 
But not all \Aio vere populsir were as long and pleas- 
antly remembered ast for exaaple, the Dolans and the 
Oosgrores and others, \Ao still lire In the hearts 
of loany friends of the old days* 

And money counted little so far as the vdder 
friendship went, ^flio that can look hack orer so 
long a stretch of years will fail to recall the gen- 
eral philosophy and unfailing wit of old I^ilcahey, 
the laapli^ter, as he ambled the perilous ahoals 
and pitfalls of Tliird street on his nineteenth cen- 
tiiry Hoslnate and refused to be lured into any of 
the traps that "the boys" racked their brains to 
de-rise for his undoing. 

Homantlc as I3on Quixote's now Ioobs the figure 
of the old lampll^ter throu^ the mist of years. 
his elderly nag shoveling along bravely in quest 
of the lights, its rider's lifting pole couxiied 
ready for any recalcitrant gas lainp's troubles as ^ 
was the laaoe of Cerrantes* hero for the windmills. 

And then in later years caae Mnlcahey*s success- 
or, Charles Qpi^ey, who lived on Perry street. Just 
up froB Third, and was the friend of ever/ man, 
\nmaa. and child from the creek up to Market street. 
He was a very little man, with a sll^t stoop, and 
wore the old-faahloned miner's red flannel shirt 
^isn going his rounds night and aoming. 


Many is the man and woman today, with grown chil- 
dren of their own, who will r s mmb er those happy 
dawns in the seventies lAien — the boy, belike, 
having danced the soles off a pair of Kelly's $16 
prise "boots, and ♦Jie world seeming; full of roees for 
all that— they would meet old Oharlie Quil^ey with 


TC. XMl 

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tmA h» had ala* fBit« & -> -* 
m^ „ J. .JMia tfiA owrUct •« 
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«lth«9« ftOt. 

^iiS»JU^- It tCttAa{d.»»& %«i^^ £<t^ i^2ii»<» 


:;,-.-;viiuc Mies U? <HJiiMli» v-- 


his asny iwrd and his iRiigjhlng faoe, and he would 
pass alone vlth his csheery "Oood aomlne, all: "And 
then he would turn and catch the eye of the maid 
with that eneoaraglng anile of his, and nod and say, 
"Bat His the fine looking pair 7' are!" 

He had three lovsly daJo^ters and one son, than 
vhoa lived none "better nor nore respected south of 


And idille on the snh.lect of lampll^terfl It nay- 
he well to tawsb. upon the topic of laB?)-plater»--a 
craft that was represented down Third street way 
l)y a Trsnohaan who lived on Jessie street just off 


All the hackmen who congregated at 16 Third 
street and other downtown stands used to go to this 
Frenchman to hare their laop reflectors re-plated, 
and he had also quite a "valuable clientele of pri- 
vate coadfaBsa and carriage owners. He was, however, 
an erratic sort of genius. He claimed to "be a sun- 
worshlTjer and used greatly and deeply to interest 
the youth of the locality iiAen he went into the 
center of Jessie street to pay his devotions to his 
deity. Some said he was "a haythaa and worse"; 
others contended that be was slniply an ahsinthe 
fiend. Eventually it transpired that hoth these 
theories were erroneous. 


The laaip-t)later~at first, "faut de mleux," as 
be said, "bat later "because he cultivated the taste 
"by ooatTBAting the habit— was a slave to Ixicine. 
Lueine was the petroleua preparation that was lar- 
gely used for carriage laBQ>s In those days. The 
Trenchnan used to sop tip the contents of all laotps 
left with hl» for replatlng, and — this time strict- 
ly on the "Luflus a Luoendo," or a Lucino, principle- 
be developed into a sun-worshiper. 


^ of ■*; 

is hit hUfi> • *«»•*• *f«'«>r% b#Mi 1»<M» wMI^ 

Ida dftc w9iHi<- 




■^i** tor 


'31»>«-i AV' *.'W ■ »' 


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f-*fwi r 

■ 1.1 ri^JV 


Professor Alljert T, Clay of Tal«, In his 
rsosntly piibllshed "Emplrs of tho Anoritest" 
IMlzits tbs dlffioolties he experienced In 
piecing together the history of this remotely 
aaoleat 3>eoplet and ho^r^even with suoh reli- 
able d&ta as that afforded hy Assyrian elay 
ta'blets and other Insorlptions— 'It is not al- 
vgys possible to ha Bathanatloally aceurate in 
assleniac a plaea or a period to an episode or 
an indlTidoal. 

Ilie professor claims to achieve approxiin- 
ate ohronologloal exactitude if he hits a 
period anyMhere within 400 or 500 years of 
aotoality* He is a oan of the greatest eminaaoe 
in his hl^ calling. "Qvery effort has haen nade 
In these fogltive chronicles of Third street to 
keep within the limit of accoraoy set forth in 
hit description of the Anorites. 

The foot of Third street was for many years, 
as before stated, at Berry street* The names of 
•<HM of its famous boatmen have been enumerated. 
Bob (ribson was famous before any of ths»— yaara 
before the South Snd Boat Club was dreamed of 
he conducted his business on the spot >^oh the 
club made famoos. The South Snd's senior baxge 
orew was probably the most saocessftil orev erer 
organised in local waters. Ban Dou^ierty was 
ex^aln. With him were George Eixplisses, Billy 
Thicnas and Jack O'Brien. 



Contetaporanaous with th«i was the Oleary er*v> 
famous not so moh for its aahiersBents as for the 
fast that it was oomrposed from one family. Robert 
Cleary, the father, was captain, and the sons, 
Jack, Andrew, Toa and Ben, were the crew. Jack and 
Andrew now condnet Cleary's Detective Bureau; Tom 
is in the Superrisors* office: Ben, who uaed to be 
coxswain of the crew, is with the Toyo Kisen Xaisha. 

Java ■% 34 

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iRtiwdMftWl/, of half A •M^ 

-imtf •€ %!»' 
site «te IHHI iWW ti M «; 


rron that saa« foot of Third street wat 
Inmehed the monitor Comanche, which nas built 
there hy the Union Iron Wotfca, under the mrper- 
Tlslon of JsBBee Ryaa, a partner of Peter Dono- 
hae. On* of Ryan't daa^tere iias married to 
Judge 0, P. Evani, and resides today with her 
son. Perry Evans, the attorney of the Mills 
■building? another was married to General Wood- 
ruff of the United States Anny. 

Inside Pope and Talhot's Itonber yard. In a 
little old deck oahln taken from saaae rlTer 
steamer lived "Captain Jack," the Apache Indian, 
^(ho wore a military tmifom and earned a liveli- 
hood hy eawing and chopping k i nd li ng wood all 
over that part of town. He hoarded at Ed Sarecen't 
restaorant aeroat the way on Third street, and 
fed well for an Indian. 

Somehow or other Captain Jack used to receive 
coDles of the Illustrated London News, «nd from 
this periodical he would copy out extracts v&ich 
he pasted up on a notice-hoard adjoining his 
cabin. Captain Jaok*s ideas on orthography and 
punctuation were Tmique. Capitals, when he used 
thsm, only aTrieared In the middle of or at the 
end of a word, where they sometimes were placed 
In groups \ibollj hewllderlng. But hundreds of 
people used to flock around that notice-hoard 
every Sunday and made merry over the announce- 
ments. The higger the crowd, the happier was the 


ram xsas 

Two other worthies of the place and period- 
one writes, approximately, of half a century ago- 
were "Slim Jl^ and "Booky Mountain Jack", two 
dotthtless gallant adventurers of an adventurous 
age, who were devoting the leisure of their later 
jeara to collecting atale heer from the kega out- 
aide the varloua grocerlea and saloons in the 
nel^horhood, and drinking out of old oyster cans 

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the neotar thus obtained* "Sltm Jla" wore laxig* 
iMsksrs and weired abont 300 pounds. "Hodgr 
Mountain Jack" was also a gentlsmsm of portly 
mien, and clalmsd to have resided and adventured 
for long periods In the fastnesses of the aotint- 
alns whence he took his name. He stood hif^ in 
popularity with the hoys of the nei^hoxhood lAum 
he regaled with endless halx^raising tales of his 
achleTements In pursuit of bears, buffaloes and 

Whenever a beer dron^t or famine menaced. 
Jack would repair to the residence of Henxy Sdh- 
■iedel, the stockbroker, on Harrison street near 
Sixth, ^ere his wants were always sjnBpathetioally 
and promptly relieved* 

Other Tietlas of the stale beer habit in that 
part of the world were, singularly enou^, a T^ack 
of five or six nondescript dogs that haunted the 
establishment of "Pig^s Head" Bill MoLou^ilin 
down near the Gas House on King street* 

Bill always had a steaming hot plg*s head and 
a dish of fine boiled potatoes to mai(^ ready on 
the fv lunch counter for all comers. It was a 
fashionable pastime to go down to Bill's, hars a 
coople of beers and a pig's head feast, and ooa- 
template the dogs ^dxo lapped ^3p all the beer 
drippings, lying suround, comfortably inebriated, 
in isarioua attitudes of abondon* 

Jim Traoey, \ibo recently resigned from the 
Dsaooratio party, opened a little hostelry on the 
east side of Third street just south of Silver, 
about forty years ago; but he was then too nev 
for the nei^boxhood and hs found the custom a 
trifle too boisterous for his tastes, so he moved 


The Crosksys were so long and so favorably iden- 
tified with the history of Hayes street that it wiU 
surprise many persons to know that it was at Third 



and Silrer strests that Robert Croskey, father 
of Chief Depity AsseeBor Rohert 7. Croskey, 
first settled \ibmn he arrired here fron Heifffoxlc 
in 1856. It VBM there that Robert T. Crodoey 
was "borm, and it was not until the sixties that 
the faaily aered to Hayes Tall^. 

A deoade later, in the early serenties* the 
yoanger Croskey moved hack to the northwest ooi^ 
ner of Third and Silver streets and opened a 
grocery of his ovn, with Billy Blattner, who 
later hecame County Clex^c, as his aS>i>^^>A^* 

Croskisy always closed his store on Sonday 
and thxLB seoxured a good slice of the valtuhle 
South Park trad** Infltientlal churchgoers of the 
district were qtiick to observe that practically 
the only establishment at that end of town \&ere 
Sabbath closing was observed was that of young 
Croskey. As, izicidentally, he sold excellent 
goods, he was rewarded with a very pleasant pat- 

Vlhat actually prosrpted Croskey to close his 
store on Sundays was that in no cirouastanees 
would he forego his Sunday baseball game or other 
siailar entertainaent. 

The old South Park hose station of the vol- 
-unteer fire department was on Third street, 
orpposite South Park. One of its surviving veterans 
is Torn Oasey of 1306 Waller street, yho lived on 
Third street in the sixties. 



When the fire department was organised. No. 1, 
"Broderick" Sngine Company, was on the north side 
of Bryant street, Just west of Third street, after- 
ward known aa Ko. 9 engine house. 

It was there that Colonel Daniel E, Hungerford, 
father of Mrs. J. W. Maeksy, used to have the head- 
({uarters of the Mexieaa War Veterans' Association, 
and it was also the general rendesvous of many 
other prominent men who had political axes to grind 
la that vicinity. 






Andrew J. Shrader, the "batcher and Super- 
TiBor, need then to have hie office in the 
Pacific Fral* Kaiket on Braanan street Juat 
vest of Third, and was a well-known ▼leitor 
at the engine house, airader street waa named 
after him. One of his sons conducts the Alpine 
Hotel on Pine street near Eeamy. 

Old "Broderick No. 1" was so called "be- 
cauae its original foreman In 1850 was DsTid 
C, Broderick, \*io was killed hy Judge Terry in" 
the famous duel seven years later. 

Broderick wis succeeded "by John A. MoOlynn, 
Oeorse V. OrMoii, David Scannell, John Martin, 
Edward B, Cotter, M. McLao^^in, Hohert Howard 
and others. 

Suhaequently, in the «AlTligie of chajage, 
old "Broderick Ho. 1" hecame old "Ho. 9 Engine," 
then "Engine No. 10." 

In the palDET days of the seventies, vb%n. the 
rwinntn of the Meadcan veterans had moved else- 
lAare, "but Third street was in all its gloiy. 
Joe Jourdan "became forsnan of Bo. 10 and Harry 
Bsynolds was engineer. 

Those were the "boys and those were the days 
thereof the lingering memories "bring tears of 
Joy to the eyes of the old-timer. 


There was Phil Brady, that somehow everybody 
called Phil "Boche", and Jack Col"bert that tmry^ 
"body knew as "Butter Jack," and Jim Donovan and 
Lou Ourry and all the rest of th«M. 

nothing delighted them so much as teasing the 
wits out of GKis Schslllng, the German ^o kept 
the shoe-repairlag shop around th** cotTier on Hitch 
street, next door to Brown, the "batcher. 

Bat it was the dance parties given hy the fire 
laddies that were the Joy of everyone South-of- 

All the "boys were there, and all the girls, 
and all the quality. 

tbt/m pm. 

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There yon voald meet Mrs. JIb Donoran, and 
Mrs. Fernando C. Cook, as well as her faushaad, 
Dr« Cook, and Mrs. Trank Q. Broun, with Trank 
(^, the Hitch-street butcher, and I4rs. Xnoidtain, 
sad her hashand, George, from the Bella Union 
Theater; John M. Buff ington, the mining man 
froai Silver street; Otis, 7. Villey, the carriage 
Mumfaottirer, froa his mansion at 522 Third, near 
Harrison street; Supenrisor Shradsr, 9t^er\rlsor 
Alhert Heyer; Alf Morgaastein, with the hig hut- 
ohershop on the west side of Third, near Braanaa, 
^bo iised to do a hig trade with the shipping in 
the harbor; Charlie Riegelhath* a riral hatcher 
on the saise side of Third between Perry azid 
SilTsr streets, wbo then had the finest trade la 
town outside the California Maxkat; Joe Skolth, 
the liTerjrBaa; Lou (rarrison, who kept the grocery 
opposite Heyer's; I. Friedlaader, the \4heat King 
of the period; Saperrisor Tom Boyce, father of 
YillisBB T. Boyce of the Federal Ikaployment Boreaxi; 
Al and Bogene Frits, John Roberts and Bill Porter, 
the ship oalkers; Bill Shaw, the pltniber, and if 
they chanced to be in town on such a glad occasion- 
Judge S. V. MoKinstxy and D. 0. Mills. 


Society spelt itself with a rsry big S at those 
rare old dances and to have attended one endowed 
the fortunate guest with a perpetual cachet to the 
inner circles of the local elite of that period. 

Another spot where sosie fine dancing was dona 
vas at Mother Stokes', down on Fourth street, bet- 
wasn Sing and Townsend. Of course, nobody claimed 
that Mother Stokes* classed up with the angina 
house reception. Nerertheless, the Saturday ni^t 
balls at Mother Stokes' prorided plenty of fan. 

And that was ^Aiat was wanted south of the slot 
•n Satovday ni^ts at that opooh of our history. 

In the Toxy early days of the fifties there 
vas a bathhouse on Third street opposite South Park, 
^lieh stood on the site afterward oceopiad "by Poultney 
and teith as a lirery stable. This was stibseqaently 


If » am ll«ii»^^T MttLltlXt Who 

CiM «f lih* f«tf 'krltiftts JKLfeioM* Jw^ittM 

■.^.?!? at'PS** .^-,Tf-=,r;^ -..•- sVitit T; V.'TiV slwwi 

^ ai^ w'*.^* yjitir'Auia^ 


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h« «te 


.».'«■ t 



taken over "by a maa named Osoar Mandellt idio 
conducted there the ComBtock Livery Stables* 

One of the few hrlefer iTaBineas tragediet 
of Third street occured ahout a hlook above 
these stables In the early seventies. 

A peacefal and industrious colored man 
established himself there in the whitevashins 
"business and gradually worked up quite a tidy 
little trade, there heing no other specialist 
in such work thereabouts. 

Just as things were beginning to shape 
themselves nicely and a nev era of prosperity 
sesBMd about to davn upon the dax4qri an rair 
eorapolous idiite man came and opened a rival 
shop nert door, with the flaunting announce- 
ment on a signboard over the fronts 

nr AI2. COLCBfl 

Tills multi-colored competition proved too 
ncudi for the Ingenuous son of Ham, \ibo vas 
quickly driven out of the race and disapipsared 
from Third street. 

About a dosen bakeries did business on 
Third street in the seventies, but the largest 
and most pomilar for many years was D'Aroy's, 
on the southwest comer of Perry street, i^ldh 
was one of the lendmarfrs of the locality. 

Feizotto and Silverman* s dry goods store, 
at the comer of Jessie street was another lead- 
ing laadmark. Across the street from Feixotto 
•ad SilvexMOiU was Bennett and Sons' drag store, 
on the southeast comer of Steranson street. 

Henry V, Bennett— the elder— was the only 
■aa la Sea Vraaeisoo idio ever idiaoked Jem Kaee, 
the dhompioB prise filter. The old Encflish 
imgilist was travelling in the country with a 
circus that exf a performance here at the old 
circus lot OB JaOkson street, lA^ere Columbus 
avenue now cuts that thoroughfaJPS. Invitations 
for a turn with Kao* were proffered to the 
aadlaaM, aad to Bennett fell the illustrious 
honor of \rfiacking xq? the old chosipion. 

' T*TS C!V TA-Vk)-Ai V^ ^SRSJT;' '" "1 '} ^IH 

«-7 >''' ..... 



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Raphael Felzotto's faoM survlYes to this 
day in that of his 'brilliant dhlldren-~Edsar, 
th« attenugrt Ernest, tha airtltt, aM Dr. 
Jassloa Palxotto of Bartoilay, Bat, In tha 
bright hour of Its aohl a r— snt, there vas no 
reno\m In San Francisco so hrllllant as that 
of the man \dxo wallopped Jam Mace. 

Reference has been made aboTe to John V, 
Maokey's father-ln-lay. Colonel Hungerford. 
A nore permanent flxtnre on Third street was 
tha faaoas operator's bootmaker, Henry Coyle, 
iihose store was for years at 402 Third, next 
door to Mrs. Annie Cook's saloon, \^loh was 
on the comer of Harrison. Haokey would pay 
as Kush as $50 or $60 for a pair of boots. 
It was boots that he wore, not shoes, and he 
wanted the best. Coyle finally aored to 
Batchertown, yiba-n he died four years ago. 
His son, Wllllaa Coyle, Is with the Union Iron 

Martin MulhaaxTi lived on Rltch street and 
haxmted No. 10 Engine House, at Thlz^ and 
Bryant streets, for many a fruitful year. He 
was ererTbody's friend and was probably the 
first real publicity agent to specialise on 
local affairs In Saa Francisco. If any local 
polltloiaa wanted to call a meeting and have 
the hall filled when he arrived there he 
sou^t the good offices of Mart Mulheam. It 
was the thing to do. 


At one tljM Martin had been a driver In the 
Fire Departnant, but once, by aistaka, at a 

Fourth of July parade, he drove tha hose reel 
to Horth Beach instead of up Mazfcet etreet which 
"cot him In bad" with the Chief. Therefore i^n, 
later. In response to a fire call at Third and 
Howard, he drove t^ to Terry Clancy's, at Ninth 
and HatoBia streets, and there he had three steaa 
1)e«TS, ha found hlaself outside the pale of tha 


!>.•>< <>»» fl*R^ 




department. Than elreioistaneefl created the first 
pdbllolty nan Bcmth of the slot. 

One hlock on Third street becaae faaoae he- 
fore it had any htiilding on it worth the name. 
That was the one "bounded "by Third, Fourth, Biyant 
and Brannan streets. 

Before eTsr old St .Patrick** was hoilt on 
Mission street, near Third, it was in that vacant 
lot hotween Third aP^ roriirth streets that the 
Eiflhop celehrated hif^ Mass on St. Patrick's day 
in the momi3agt and the good Irish froa all orer 
the land foregathered for derotion and a hlessing 
before startiae on their St.Patrldk*8 day parade. 
It was the greatest regular open-air devotional 
■eetin,-^ that erer halloned any hlook In SanFratt- 
eisco; hut it passed out when they nored the old 
church down from its site ^ere the Palace Hotel 
now stands to Mission street. 

That old cfaorch still exists. From Mission 
street it was moved to Eddy street, between Web- 
ster and Fillmore, lAere it flourished for some 
years. Then it was again bodily removed to 
Calvary Cemetety. There it stands to this d^y, 
the last existing architectural monament to the 
St.Patriok*s days of old San Franeisoo. 

October 5. 1919. 


Soiae anonynous bard, in tenns concise but 
iMiortal, long since convinced this world of 
ours that "Ireland was Ireland wben JbaglMooA was 
a pop." Calif omU still awaits the advsart of 
the inspired singer ^o will, with eqpial elegaa- 
ee, epitomise the doyenage, as it were, of North 
Beach onfv soeh subsequent and,by oonipazlson, 
anshrooB upstarts as the modem society center 
of ^ob Hill and its erstwhile equally poiwlar 
predecessors in Fashion** favor, Hinoon Hill and 
South Pazk. 

South Paxk is but a mmorn the vexy plaoe 
thai was Rincon Hill is being graAwilly levelled 
off the map. But Horth Ben^sh still flourishes. 


tf 1\> ^-'.l»t .-».*«*/» ^Y't?! t.\f&T'. -Jx 

9%^M ]^^^^ ^^^^ 

NfftMi* # 

%lHi% stndi^ 


?^ai«Q r^»« KT.i' ♦l^v'Wss^ *^ «»m*r*« 



.>«» "^^.-trt ?*. t^si isay^'iTFi; 


0. jipa;. 








though in a oanner at varlanos with that of 
other dayi. It Is a thing that surrlYes and 
toxpasses. Its pralMS ar« song todajr erwa 
■or* fervently than those of all the Oaesars 
on all the Seren Hnig of Rom*. 

The hub and nucleus of Horth Beach in the 
ds/s of its pristine glozy was Tindouhtedly 
Meiggs* i^iarf, where foregathered the fleets 
of idilt shall boats and cat-hoats that aforw 
tiae plied between the city and the ships 
that studded the hay, 


There grew and ripened Abe Warner's Cohveb 
Palace I there docked the Sausalito ferry; there 
flourished 7riedlander*s floor nillst a^A there 
also prospered that w>st comforting of hostel- 
ries* the Crab Hous«« conducted by Old Man Leri 
Burr, yih»T9 with orah stews axid chowders that 
were eestacies of gastronooay, their headaches 
and other qoalms were alleviated hy the hloods 
of other days. 

Meiggs' «harf was built in the earliest 
days hy Harry Meiggs* ^o was a hig man of hig 
▼iewst and eTsntoally did a foolish thing~-got 
financially embarassed and ran ftwsy to South 
America. He was well liked and his worth was 
appreciated in the old town. He had many friends 
iAu> would gladly have "seen hia throu^". But he 
ran away, and hard things were Said about hla. 
How, subsequently he asuused a great fortune and 
paid all his old bills is part and parcel of oar 
pioneer days' history, but has not imich to do 
with North Beach as a district. 

Coeval with Meiggs was Abe Warner, a nan who 
afterward beoaae the leading character among San 
Francisco's show celebrities. His old Cobweb 
Palace that stood at the shore end of Meifiga* 
wharf in the earlier days, continued famous for 
■any decades after that section of the bay into 
which the wharf projected had become solid land 






7 «uir 


VL.l^.'i.V^* ri^^T^sj iw4 


and was ooT«r«d with baslnaas eatabllshments* 

Wamar was originally a Joumayman batcher in 
Pcdton Market, New York City, "bat eama out here 
among the "forty-niners" and started his California 
career aa a batcher with Weisahom on Long Wiarf— 
now Commercial atraat* 


A Frenchman naaad Barralla, but called "Eag" 
for ahort, eatabliahed a aalocm and eating houaa 
at tha head of Maigg'e vharf, Warner bought it 
tram Barraila, who vent out to Vialtacion vallay, 
\dMre for yaara, he ran the toll houaa and roadr 
bouaa on the old Shell road* 

Meam^ila Wamar reconatruotad the Barralla 
aatabllahmant upon lines unique and unprecedented. 
Cobwebs were not only allowed to grow, but ware 
foatarad with loving care. Curioa and aalmala ware 
poxehaaed from sailora and huntara and stored on 
the premlaaa or in adjaoaat dens. Hanging froai tha 
Invartad forest of cobwebs on tha calling waa a 
rla«, whareon for thirty-three years lived Warner 'a 

pat parrot. 

Whenever a new cue toner entered that parrot 
laarad down at hia froa hi a eyrie among the cobweb a 
and gobbled out the bibulous annoruncement J 

"I'll have a mm and ^^ua: What '11 you have?" 

It was a queer spot. There was an old wood st- 
ove to the riglit of the entraiuxe on ^ioh stomered 
atamally tha copper kettle, lAiiah. fumiahad tha 
hot water for the "hot rams" and "hot Irishes" aff- 
ected by certain patrons in wet or chilly weather. 
On tha other aide was tha old barrel into yiiidh 
Waoraar dumped tha bear drippinga and other drags 
to naka vinegar. 

Around tha walls and In all available nooks and 
crannies were hanging curios from every clime and 
of every deacriptlon. And, bri^taalng up tha oob- 
wabbad aombraaning at varying intarrala, brilliant 
photographa of eminent prlae-flgJitera. 

•nHOM «r A«er with 

ll»igK** liMRt in «ix»*- .lyii «ga« %h« 

fhn .:^ WB 011ft Bwi" -iTW t« 
iMiadvr, aviiwx* %• §••* «iMl>t %o Homh B«»cb. VImv*- 
ftorr '•'■•' ^mmr yoi y yd ■»*? '-'^-^ --^ '■"-' — 

tifCtttL ^ii.T7\i, v^ vu mIs 9MMCK 


AB«th«r Iwa-ry hiwrt*< wtrttgr ••• 

«M vU XsH ^<iw iMkiA ■#«tr U 
U«i fiMrth aivur atvslRff ^ f«l!> 

TnmsTilB PX9 PH"''* crrT. nv imffft \u 

-oA ii^ J» fmtam «M of hia vMib 

^J^M^«n»M%l^ AMI iHinir III j4« bMi 



9anda7 vas customarily a Tezy "busy day with 
Wameri so h« serrad fr«« ohovdar on that day» and 
vreryhody agrsed that It vas excellent chowder. 

Melgg's \Aiaxt in those very early days was the 
principal Sonday haunt and rendexrous of the city. 
Ther« was no paxk, no Cliff House-"-- "noidiere to 
vaadsr, no^riiere to go," except to North Beaoh. Where- 
fore old Warner prospered and his Idlosynoraeles re- 
garding cohvehs and anlaals heeaae world-renowned. 

MonkeySf bears, kangaroos— all sorts of animals, 
foond their way to his menagerie. 

Old Zacariah Colhy, who conducted his fruit and 
peanut huslness as near to the Cohweh Palace as he 
could ^t, is reported to hare accuaailated a gargan- 
tuan fortune selling peatxats to visitors, who in 
turn, fed them to Warner's monkeys, 

Zavarlah was a crippled sailor and was at first 
a sort of pensioner of Warners— used to help eat up 
the chowder for hia and so forth. Bat in tine, of 
coarse, he heoaae a personal link in the chain of 
Warner's prosperity. 

Another hoaxy-headed worthy of the Cohweh Falaoe 
was old Ira, who looked after the hears and \Ao sal- 
lied forth every morning to collect food for thea at 
the Calif omia narloet. In those days the hatchers 
there gave away the livers and li^ts and other tag 
ends of neat, lAilch now cost good money, hut were 
then only used to feed hears* The famous menageirie 
of the Cohweh Palaoe would have heen a commercial 
Iniposslhlllty today* 


Hext to Warner, hat farther out on the wiiarf , 
was "Cockney" White's MasenM, which may have Ins- 
pired Abe to undertake forming one of his own. 

Cockney's estahlishment, however, was aore 
strictly along the conventional lines adTfeeted hy 
the diae aueoas, so-called, of that period, and 
its principal attraction was an educated pig that 
played seven^i^). 

tl MMH M* «h« ir 

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um ma t« 

Of IBM •»! w» 

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/•cert V, *;^^ '^ttjr'ybr «i:f»9r 


"Walk Tip: Walk tip: Lldiai and g«ntleiB«n," 
Cockney would eshort the crowd on the wheo^ side. 
"Walk vp and see the ed-oo-kLted plgi *E*11 play 
70a a gtae of eeven-up and heat you every tlioet" 

So everyhody crowded in and somehody played 
•even-nzp with the ^fted porker, iidio always wont 
and Coelmey fohbed their quarters* There were no 
dimes in those grand days. 

Abe Warner vb.* a man of meditnt sise, and rathr* 
er heavy hoild, idio custooiarily wore a heard and 
a tall hat. The latter was about the only tall 
hat seen around the Meiggs wharf district later 
than the ei^ties. 

The ^^larf ran out strait from FrBoolsoo 
street, midway between Powell and Mason streets, 
and parallel to th«tt with two "Is" 7>ointing due 
last froB its outer end, making the wharf resemble 
a capital letter T." 


The outer "L" was blown awey in the hlg storm 
of 1863 and was never rehoilt. Trom 1868 until 
1875 the inner "L" was used as the terminal of the 
Soosalito ferry. 

The wharf Itself WaS a most popular pronenads. 
All sorts of hoats hong In dewlts along its fadrway, 
others were moored in the water alongside. 

There was a trtifp door in the sidewalk outside 
Warners, throu^ which wouldr'be bathers descended 
to the water, and swam out on the hay. Down in the 
cellar there was a regular hathlng establisfaiMaKk 
whero suits coold be hired and the swlnMrs* clo- 
thes left in safety. 

Haadreds of boys who )mf heooae big in the 
affairs of the State and city used to swim off 
Maiggfli \AvBiTf in those halcyon days. There were the 
Dutards, \Aui lived or Valparaiso street near Kasonr 
the thorooghfare waS nasMd by the IXxtards after 
their native city. They oaae here from Talparaiso. 
The Robert Tobings were others. They lived at Oreen 
and Stockton streets. Then there were the Tays, and 
the Balseys, and the Eremers, and the Whites, and 
the Taafes, and a host of others. Vodge John Hont 
was one of thaa. He later married one of the lovely 


z:/::SiA m urn ccj-. 

glrlt, lAio In those d-^ys llrad on Tlorth 
BMoh At th» northiwst comer of Oreen and Taylor 


The hoatnen lAo kept their crei't at Melgge* 
vharf i«ere a miaed grill— some men of sterliEg 
worth and character viho dnly aehlerwd property, 
others were reckless adventurers lAo could poll 
an oar or cut a throat with equal readiness If an 
opTX)rtn.nlty with profit att-^.ched offered Itself. 

Jim Blood, >*u> af terfards heoaaw a har pilot 
to the port, used to have his hoat at Hel^s* 
wharf; Bave Crowley, father of the tug owner. To* 
Crowl^, started his career on Meiggs \ftiarf . 
Others well known there were Big Bill Lewis, \ixo 
was inrited "by the Vigilantes to leare the town, 
and «ho went to Callao lAere he aaassed a great 
fortune? Martin Oallagher, Billy Hamilton, ToaBar 
Claxk, "better known as "Rotmd-headi " "Activity* 
Jaek BourtoB, said to haiw heen the sleepiest hoat- 
Mm on the hay) "Monkey" Farrell, Johnny Moore 
•ad aaay another. 

It wsui "Activity" Burke \dio was goaded into 
rowing a raee around Goat Island a,'^lnst the man 
1^ admitted himself to he the slowest puller on 
the Coast, and was heaten to a frassle. 

"Activity," ¥ho could pull a splendid oar 
when he so pleased, was asMuied at the outcotae. He 
did not know that a big oil can had heen nailed 
to the keel of his hoat and made an Insuperahle 

"Bed Shirt" was the only xusM ^erehy his com- 
rades knew a Mexican hoatman \^o was killed one 
ni^t in a row with a pollcemaa. Another hoatman 
BMMd Sully tried to hully the vmU of a ship into 
paying an extra fare one nl^t, and was hy that 
■ate thrown overtoard and drowned. "Johnny the 
Greek," another well-known hoatman is presumed to 
have met a similar fate. Anyhow his corpse 
found in the hay. 

_^ or —• « ttnu 













^VUTf «'»]a «iu»»»^c^ 


-«■■> -t.'vj ♦* .T » "ir^'t : la 



V IdL-VWaf ^ r» _ 




Some of tho«e old s^a-fttrera of th« fifties 
■till BurriTB here. Wllliaa Veils, nho resides 
on Chestnat street, is one of then. He is the 
father of Ton Wells axid Mrs. X. M. Fai<bish. 

Tvo other sorriTors were well known in their 
day and rery popular. They were the McCarthy 
hoys — "Boston" and "Sew Toric," so called after 
the cities froa iidiidh, respectively, they hailed. 

They were in no way related, hut ran the same 
boat and were ali^^ys cronies. Charlie (Boston) 
lived at Green and Pierce streets, a^ is the 
father of Miss Ella McCarthy, the school principal. 
Billy (Hew Yoxk) liTsd in the western addition. 

live or six days out of eaeh sersn old Billy 
leaves his Uestsm Addition home and tacks true 
for Green and Pierce streets, where he sits playing 
erihbage with his old nate for aost of the after- 

Behind Ahe Warner* s, on the south side of Tranr 
Cisco street, toward Mason, w&s Keigg's sawaill, 
which afterward hecaOM a distillery and still later 
•a ice house. The Xoe Bouse was destroyed in the 
great fire. 

On the northeaet comer of Pranclsco and ?owell 
streets were Friedlsader * s Eureka flour mills, 
tdiieh later heoaae the Stock Brewery ejai then the 
St .Louis Brewery. Opposite It, on the southeast 
coxner, Wonnenberg's New Yorii Brewery was estafr- 
liahed in 1851. 


B«twMa the breweries and Earner's was Heyden- 
aber*s Atlantic Hall, a great resort in its time, 
faaous for its beer, its fights and its danoss, 
aad where could be seen and met all the wLderllle 
etars froa sahh downtown establlchnents as the old 
Snreka, the Bella TTnlon and other -variety theaters 
of the period. 


«ir«, 14* ^w.-.,^.. 

for t 


oft oBft MBBafl* 

U4U X;iu^ £U1^ Vt'^iTTJ.^ 

^lij&r s6'?<i* tTw 

tWl ?.^tfcr *ter ,(.ii<? :^.1 ^fc-Astfi 

14 &j^ > - ; # »i g*at <i;4*^ 



Toaagr Brloe, Hed ITestell, Ned BaoklQjr, hit 
vlfa, Ida Tocmg, and maay other fasKme sln^rs 
and dancer* of the time used to appear at the 
old Atlantic Ball, inclnding JiuBoy Kenoran, the 
ehaapion tiientjr-foar-hotLr Jig dancer. 

Kenovan, throng his heacvttBrsent accoorplish- 
■•nt of "bein./; ahle to danoe one oontlnaoas Jig 
for twent3r*foiir hours at a stretch, acquired a 
oompetenee. Part of this he invested in grease 
for a flagpole that stood in Mason's lot on the 
comer of Mason and Francisco streets* nearT)7. 
On top of this pole was a $5 piece; lower down, 
a bamt still lower, $1, and so along. 

Any gentleman or lady so minded waa permit- 
ted—on 3)aynent of a small fee— to shin up that 
flagpole and take away the has or aren the $5 
piece. Bat Eenovaa xMed good greaae. Hohody ever 
got near the $5, and he had to eat all the hama 
he hung out to prevent them fron going overripe 
on his hands. 

Qateifcar IS. 1Q19. 

Horth Beach owed mush of its faae as a 
plaaaore resort— and Horth Beach was a plaaaora 
rasorl of great popularity in the old days— to 
the excellence and abundance of the crahs vdildh 
the fishanMn tinloaded there. 

Crabs and wild docks were then about the 
cheapest classes of food in San I'rancisco, and 
the crab fishanMn bad a little pier of their 
oim, a little way east of Heiggs vftiarf. ^t vas 
adjacent to the big rock that Jutted into the 
•ea at Bay and Kaamy streets, ^ihere the old-tlna 
disciples of Xaaak Walton used to tarry for hours 
at a tiae, fishing finny treasures from the opor 
lent depths of the bay. 

It vsts there that Peter 7ay and old Captain 
Johnson kept their boats. It was there alno that 
the building of the present seawall was started 
in 1880. 





■'.<f» rw 

^ gtifltin <^u' U4> <un;d fawr : 

«y^ift ci«b Aayy 



Tot * loag tiBM It was kBovn as Dsad Man's 
Bock, bsoacass it was thsre that Undar Sheriff 
Jack Harrison, vho vaa famous with the then 
Sheriff Dare Soanncll in the days of the Tigil* 
antes, blew his hraina out in 1857* 

Dan KeHeil*s vdiarf vslB near "by. His resid-* 
enoe was oa the comer of Bay and Leavenworth 
streets, and the old Ilerchsnts' dry dooks, with 
their two great pontoons that could take in 
ships up to 1000 tons, were on the eoubh east 
oonxer of Bay and Kearny streets. 

Bat to retxim to ihe crabs; Sturr's Crab 
House, doiA near Abe Warner's, was by no xoeans 
the only pebble on the beuoh. 

Abe Warner himself, as before stated, served 
a crab ohowder of sozpassine exoellenoe on the 
8&bbafh« So did many other establishments. Of 
these, probably the most fajaous was Charlie 
Sofawarts's, at the northwest comer of Powell 
aad Vandewater streets. Sohwarts oonduoted on 
establishment that was the prototype of the sub- 
••qtiSBt paradise of the orab eaters at Harbor 

Thousands of survivors still recall the hal- 
cyon crab days of Harbor View— the mountains of 
succulent, freshly bailed oraba, the red-wood 
blocks that served as tables, the mallets fomisb- 
ed free for the easier fif»«>i4t»g of the crab shells, 
the foaming flagons of beer, the feast that could 
be had for a quarter. 


Schwartz was the epicurean philantropist idu> 
pioneered the alluring system of serving crabs, 
al fresco, at a ^oninal charge that ran to about 
a dl»e per crab. Who that ever thus enjoyed a 
crab in the pristine succulence of his ^ory can 

©iff"* •^^■•^" 

.1 '.ii.'- 

9m\ teft ite 
didM oat thai 

t:s'' ,\"^ T.'ii.W'iV"' ^?ffr.3ff ^TTOWf TCB 999 

T^r'--\^i.»^ fwf i\iL f^sm fil^t^lL^ 


BTBT forget the Joy of It, or fall In hi* trlbate 
of honor to the memory of Charlie Sch\cBrt«: 

You coxad have cold crabs in the ehell or Itie- 
eioaa crah ateir—Just aa you pleaaed— alathera of 
one or "both at Schwarta'a, and \<BBh it doim vith a 
quart or ao of foaBlng lager, and a till have change 
to Boend out of a dollar. 

Better atill, had the hungering epicure only 
the price of a beer upon hia, he could hoy the "beer 
for a nickel and get all the orahs' lege he deaired 
for nothing. 

Trita Sohroeder*a, at the norfheaet corner of 
Povell and Trenelaoo atreeta, waa another place for 
ereSb ateva of a quality and richneaa i^olly ineffable. 
Billy Hiohol'a place, on the northeast comer of the 
aame atreeta, was another popular reaort \diere crab 
could he obtained. But at Nichola' eatabllahaient the 
crab was not featured aa the leading lure. It waa 
aubaequently knotm as the North Beach Teiminua aal- 
oon; but that was when they brought the old "baloon" 
cara out that way. Prior thereto it waa regarded aa 
one of the beat class houaea of its kind at North 


On the aaBie block, on Francisco street between 
Powell and Mason, waa another eetablishment with 
quite a different clientele. That waa Paddy Gleaaon'a, 
renowned for it a dog fight a. 

In thoae daya there flourlahed at North Beach, 
and elaewbere throo^^ioat thia farored land, an Inc 
tltution known ae the Anerioaa oooktail. It came in 
many Tarietiea, and thoilgji all those rarieties are 
now legally extinot aaay oontaiq)late with regret 
the Joya with idiioh their maawriea are still fragrant. 

Paddy Oleason had a unique way of mixing cock- 
taila. In hia earlier daya he had loat all the dlgita 
froai hia ri^t hand exeept the thmab and forefinger. 
Vhen a patron called upon him for a cocktail it waa 
hia ouatoa to pofor the neceaaary Ingredienta into a 
cocktail glaaa and then atir them together among 
the clinking lumpa of ice with hia one remaining finger. 


Mid and tiwc .>4I 

- tt»., ...., aftd w f» 1* "^'^^i 
«;. ■"*.»•.- -^.»* ^^•''- -♦.«, wu -. •»■'•* 




If any eorlouBly lalndad oastoner made Ixutolxy 
as to tb* raason therefor Faddy explained: It sarea 
the trouble o' keepin* me eye on the epoons." 

Should any expression of distaste ensue* Faddy 
sucked the offending digit and thrust it under the 
patron's noae. 

"It's clane» ain't ItT" he denanded. 

Then he gave the drink another stir and handed 
It aoross the "bar* 

"Swaller that nov and vey for it, "begoh: or I'll 
thrast it dovn yer throat, glass an' all»" 

farther east, on the north>«est comer of Fran- 
elsoo and Dupont streets, vas another resort kept 
\f * Ban knoim as "Wooden Shoes," vho earned that 
sohriquet througji hie persistent affection for the 
sahots of his natlTs land. 

This patriotic idlosTnorasy, howerer, vras over- 
looked by the longshoreasn yiho dally gathered at 
his place froa far and near for the enjoyuent of 
the longest and sharpsst steam beer that the city 
than afforded. 

"A tank of suds" at "Wooden Shoes" was a nan's 
sise drink and always In the pink of condition* 

Wooden shoes and his tanks of suds, like the 
redvood blocks and the fres czab legs, art nov ners 
shadows of tradition. 


Kany old photographs of jfforth Beach exist \diich 
shov stakes sticking up out of the water facing Bay 
street and sugs«*ting fishing stakes such as arm 
soBietiiBes used by fishermen to hold their nets in 
tidal waters. 

As a matter of fact, those stakes were line 
stakes stuck out in the water to nark the boundar- 
ies of water-lots purchased from the city in the 
old days and «hioh were ianune to the incursions 
of squAtters than vers sand lots in the days >Aen 


^,^^,y^ ~ 1,-4 t* 'i^.it.V 


tb»XX» rr 

ii tJCtfj:* x.a'«,^5JM; 


•qoatters really squatted and held their "booty 
at the -Doint of the grm. 

It was Henry C. Eoyt, the boat oimer who 
afterward vent Into the contracting huslnees, 
that soggeeted this system of marking the ^^ter 
lots, and his adrlce was widely followed. Heniy 
0* and Hofftaaa Eoyt lived at the comer of 
Stoekten and Bay streets. 

Henzy was for a time marine reporter, and 
he was a famous oarsman, and his match race 
against Dan Leahy in Fehxtiary, 1880, was one 
of the local sporting sensations of that period. 
First they rowed around Ooat Island from Vallejo 
street \Aarf, %^re the Eoyt hoats used to be. 
San Leahy u«ed the sliding seat in his Whitehall 
"boat and thus had the adrantage. Wherefore, it 
wsM— sieeordlng to Hoyt's supporters— that victory 
went to the Irish. 

Terrible excitement raged throu^out the city; 
everybody took sides in the matter! and eventually 
a match was arranged, to be rowed in sculling 
■hells on Richardson's bay, under conditions that 
gscfe neither man the advantage. 


It was the greatest aquatic event of the period. 
Cat boats, feny boats, yachts, stem-i*eel steaa- 
ers and other craft of evexy conceivable kind packed 
the population of San Tranoiseo across to Hiohard- 
■on*s bay; and there Dan Leahy settled the problem 
by finally and decisively defeating his opponent. 

This was the Dan Leahy who is so well known today 
aaoBg contractors and in the Stock Z aeo h aage. 

Anchored off what is now the comer of Francisco 
and Jones streets, once lay the old brig Cadnu, 
known to North Beaehers of the fifties as "Brig B." 

The Cadmus was the ship in which Lafayette made 
his last voya^ to the United States. In the later 
forties it was Impressed Into service for the Gkild 
Hash and brou^t its quota of pioneers around the 
Horn. The crew deserted the vessel and soti^t fortune 

i-v ''■■•i»-^Kr 


ttau it % 


I«a and tt* >^ 



VX w*-»^ \-^,vt 1^*^*^ -^ »-»-■- » •■ . . » 


in th« n9w El Dorado t the Cadmat lay, an idle 
hoik upon the hay. 

Then a lot of Insane r>atlenta "began to 
aooanolate upon the hands of the sathorities* 
Ho1>od7 knev just yibsit to do vlth the unfortun- 
ates until some one thought of riggtag up the 
Cadms as a receiving ship for the insane, and 
thus it heeaiad the first etsylum of its kind on 
the Coaat, and \m» officially knoim as "Brig B." 


Later, the State asylua was built at Stock- 
ton and the Cadimxs was again for a ^lle 
deserted: hut presently an epidemio of small poz 
struck the torn and "Brig B" hecame the Lazarett*. 

Thereafter, she was "broken up: hut taany relies 
of the old ship were preserved "by the old French 
Volunteer Fire Company^— "Les PoapiersLafayette"— 
that subsequently beoaae Trook Ho. 2, on Broadway 
between Stockton and Dopont streets. 

Opposite the Brig, on the side of the old Fort 
Point toll road at about \4iere Franciaco street 
now crosses Jones, was Foley's saloon, \Aiere the 
general wayfaring public and visitors to the brig 
soo^t suitable refreshment* 

It was thereabouts that the boys and young men 
of the vicinity used to go in swinmriLng without 
hampering themselves with any of the paraphernalia 
affected by bathers in places where they had to 
pay for the privilege of a dip. 

There of a morning yoc ml^t see the Whits 
boys, John, Bob and Bill: the BoAes— "Fatty* , ytoo 
afterward became City and County Attorney, and Ed; 
Jim Croall, the Australian, who becajae the brother- 
in-law of Billy Mitchell, the Tax Collector: Jlaay 
Olbb, subsequently of Merchant street, and of Oeary 
street after the fire, \Aio married the sister of 
the White boys: the Halseys, and Brooe Brackett, 
who long since moved down to San Jose. 


»'i T-n»«k» tty^. 


-,-^ . ,- wjr i' -^ "■^-»< ^* ' 

MdtUat «h» )kMi»v of Time. 

•0 tlMlt H MWMT i«Ua MftU.' 





hr>rc ^ 



Many Aaatralian famlli«s than llv«d on Horth 
B«ach. Tb« lifhltas' home \fffi on Janten strvet, the 
Boxkas on Jones, hetveen Grvenvlch and Tllhert; 
011)1) *• on John streetf near Povell* 

The "boys and girls all went to the school at 
the comer of Francisco and Powell streets v&lch 
In 1857 transBBited into the City a^d County Hosp- 
ital, Tracy was the name of the school principal, 
and he was physically well qualified to guide the 
turbulent young sports of those days in the pAtht 
of wisdoB and the proprieties* 

Bill Kpamer, \Aio now llres at Bay and Hyde 
streets, once endeayored to prove to the teacher 
that the Zraoers were superior to the Tracys in 
prowess if not in wisdom. He was a fine aotlTS 
and handsome lad« hut hy the time he gave np 
settling the hash of Tracy, his nose was flattened 
so that it never again really "bulged out Into its 
own place. 

Oetoher 19. 1919.' 

North Beach, as has heen explained, was « 
famous recuperating resort for men who took part 
In the streimous life of the pioneer and honansa 


Driscoll's Salt Water Tuh Bathing Sanatorium, 
at the southeast comer of Bay and Powell streets, 
was prohahly the most renowned estahllshment in 
the entire district, and on a Sunday morning long 
lines of valetudinarians and healthy citlsens 
combined, mi^it he seen awaiting their turn for a 
hoiling out at the hands of Professor Drlscoll or 
his gifted coadjutor, "Bathhouse Jack." 

There were thousands yibo claimed to have heen 
cured of ailmsnts vaxTlng from locomotor ataxia 
down to "the Jla-JsiBs,* hy the simple expedient of 
a dip at Driscoll's, Both Drlscoll and Bathhouse 
Jack oonfixmad the reports of these cures. And 
who could have had "better opportunities in ascer- 
taining the truth on such mattersT 




.* -iLSi^' 

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^^^^^l^ j ^^OLS' 

IVl fr-' 




t %H!«*«* %f 



Thm ■•dleaaent ua«d In th«M paiiaoa«lc tubs 
WM the b«st sea ymXer pfoirpsd directly from the 
1)87 B1X& 1>olled on the preaises. 

Sobeequently Harbor Vlev became celebrated 
for its hot sea nater haths} Init as may he re* 
called, a soclahle, if not actually hilarious, 
note oooasionally permded the latter estahllsh- 
Bent, \Aii.6h had a gayer atmosphere than any per- 
mitted to prevail at Driscoll's. 

Of later dsrvelopment than the Tuh Sanatorium, 
Imt aqpoally popular In its vny, was the place 
laaoMXi as "Schwarz's Springs," on the north east 
eoxner of Chestnut end Povsll streets. 

Thither, from far and vide, repaired the 
victims of the katzenjanmer* 

Schwara's hrevexy stood on the nor^ side of 
Fevell street, hetveen PoveU and Stockton. The 
hulldlng still surrlTes, as a natter of fact— 
and it produced the curatlTe staple that made the 
fsBM of the subsidiary establisbaient on the coiner 
of Chestnut street. That staple vas Weiss Beer— 
^hlte heer— a fluid of hi^ aeration, hut lov 
alcoholic content, which used to he served In 
amasingly large glasses, about the sise of soap 
tureens, hut resemblizig Doi>e the hovls that are 
cuetomarily used for holding ^Idflsh, mounted on 
stems like ordinary gohlete. 


A hottle of weissheer, froth and all, filled 
one of these receptacles. The crure for the Eatsen- 
jammer v^s best effected by attserpting to drink 
tbe satire ^lassfol at one dran^t. This being 
iapotsible, the patient sv&lloved all he coxad* 
Then, with glistening eyes and exploding cheeks^ 
the patient sped outside. 

Seedless to say, Joe Sehwars became famoos as 
an Aeseulspian phllantropist. His springs were 
also fasMias for another prodoet of the brevexy^a 


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»« mm Ai* 

1ft Ai 

?0>«i«ll wild Wn tft B . ?H«^ v^ 
iMMwrx on JMt' 

MM •lM«<i« )r<: 

TAP if * 







•ort of "bottled steaa 'b—v slidLlar to that pro- 
dnced at tha old Swl«« Brwary on Bash street, 
and purrejed In bottles at a dine apiece or 
tvslTa for a dollar. 

Schvars*8 Springs wa», naturally, a great 
resort for (reman cltisens and sooleties—— the 
katsenjaaner, as Its name indicates, "being an 
ftilnaat indlgmuma to the Central European ex- 
enpires, as distinct from North B«aoh. 

While on the subject of Schwari*s affiliated 
iiidustrles it is due to North Beach to point out 
that "breweries flourished all over the district. 
There iias the old Bavaria, next to the Church of 
St.ftrancis on Telle Jo street; the Broad\<ay Brew- 
ery on Broeulvay, "between IXcpont and Stockton; 
the tapire Brewery, on Chestnut street, "between 
Powell and Kasoa. There was also l^srons' anpire 
Brewery on Jessie street during the sixties; the 
Lafayette Brewery, on Green street, "between 
Powell and Mason; the Golden Gate Brewery, on 
Greenwich street, "between Powell and Mason; 
Mason's Brewexy, on Chestnut street, "between 
Mason and Taylor; Schwara's, above descri"bed, on 
the aase street, "between Powell and Stockton; the 
old Stock Brewexy, later the St .Louis, on the 
southeast comer of Tranclsco and Powell streets, 
and the Washington Brewexy, on the southeast cor- 
ner of Lomhard and Taylor streets. 


One of the nost interesting exa«ples of in- 
dustrial reciprocity prevalent in the days of 
these "breweries was the entente that existed 
"between the North Beach "brewers and the "Rode- 
Rollers" so-called of Telegraph Hill and other 
lofty eminences within their sphere of influence. 

The "brewexy wagons would haul the loads of 
"beer for the hillside customers to the top of the 
grade at Pil"bert and Montgomery streets, and 
thexMe the drivers would roll down the harrelt, 
one "by one, to the saloons or ahodes that required 
thssi. They never tried to roll a "barrel uphill. 


»1Hi »». ^' « 



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4 fey»fc \^ v^tVA .^itaP?! 

(? sn.. 

flfiui iAai>dr- 


Once delivered, the 'brewers* men no longer 
vorrlad about the harrels on the hill-tope. Th«7 
Imev that those harrels voald In time all grori' 
tate hack to their proper level at Greenwich and 
Sanson* streets, \dienoe they would in due titne 
reooTsr than, each hrever taking only those 
harrels that were his own. 

The barrels thus found their way home throu^ 
the kindly offices of the Hook-Rollers, who Joy- 
ously piloted the empty harrels down the Trarious 
grades, being ooopeaaated therefor hy the saloon 
Ben with a schocmer or so of heer on the remoTal 
of each barrel, and "by the Joint breweries neax'by, 
a dozen of then, with all the free beer they 
could oonscDSS. 

All the Hock-Rollers were well known to the 
private taprooms, \dierein the breweries eustaan- 
arily entertained their friends in the good old 
days, and all of them were welcome to drink as 
often as they pleased. 


Thus the be«r barrels oaae back to North Beach 
from the adjacent mountains. 

fay's Soap factory was on the north side of 
ahestnut street, between Mason and Taylor, conveni- 
ently adjacent to Mason's brewery, and was even 
better Imown as a landmark. 

Breweries there were in North Beach '*to bum," 
bat only one soap factory and only one Jack Tay. 

Tay was a Hew Yorker, and a shrewd T>olitieian, 
and was at various times State Senator and Super- 

Adjoining the factory, in the early pioneer 
days, he built a guest house of sorte— a bank- 
house, in fact, where his friends from the metro- 
polis ^o cam* out here in quasi of gold were 
aceonodated free, and with a many walooma, and 
where they left the baggage they found all too 
superfluous yAein thay started for tha mines up- 
state. Representatives from tha NawTork Herald 



m ■ymLk mi 

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tiisyj 9f ?r^Aa 

imwUik ftjafft**?- V .-ry. 'i ftr jrf fv-i-s^'jr J** new*. 

.i^^. >i/it.^i*0r ill* 



and oth«r grtat Sastern dailies of the period 
•lailarly BaA* their San Tranoiseo bas* at Fay't. 
Thay all started out in qpBst of gold as well as 
oopor, and nearly all of thea returned to their 
kits at T|qr*«* tadder hut viter than vhen they 

IV'e two eone nov reeide in San Francisco. 
LtOce on Oreenwioh street, hetveen TranJslin and 
Tan NesSf and John at Chestnut and Leayenworth* 

Alex Stott's oil refinery, \Aere they maao- 
factured "cangiiene'*— a then porjular illuminant 
made from crude oil— was at the northwest comer 
of Taylor axid Chestnut streets. It was homed 
down in the fire of 1864. 


Josiah Stanford, brother of Senator Iceland 
Stanford, in 1853, established the Pacific Oil 
Hefining Coapaay, a rival business to Stott*s, 
on the opposite comer of Chestnut street. 
Allyne and White subsequently conducted the 
Pacific Kerosene works, so-called, on the same 

Another well-known Horth Beach industry of 
oldea days was John Ererding's Starch factoxy 
on Water street, between Mason and Taylor. The 
Srerding Staxeh factoTy is now in Berkeley, and 
John Ererding Jr conducts its business from off- 
ices on Clay street. 

Equally famous and more conspicuous in the 
days of its lorine WaS Pfeiffer's flour mill at 
Dapont and Pfeiffer streets, with its old Dutch 
windmill that had its sails blown off in the big 
storm of 1863 and never had them put back again. 

Beside the mill was Pfeiffer»s house, the 
most ornate of its place and period— which was 
known as "Pfeiffer" s Jolly." It afterward became 
the Home for Inebriates, and as such achieved an 
entirely different sort of distinction under the 
administration of Dr. Jewell. 





U «lM iHM* 



Pfalffer hbs a Oermaa oerohant, \ibo origin- 
ally settled in Sacramento, where he waa "bomed 
out lome half dozen times or thereaboute. Dls- 
gosted at this series of misfortunes, he eazoe to 
San Traneisoo, where he settled and estahlished 
his mill and "bollt his house. He presented the 
Cit7 with the strip of land that is now Pfeiffer 

In that same locality, on the comer of 
Tranoiseo and Midway streets. Sergeant William 
D, Torguson, now of the Park police, was a not- 
able figure in the days of his youth. He m&b 
then one of the Marine Reporters, so-called— 
tba men who were employed hy the Merchants' Er- 
change to meet the ships that arrlTed in the 
harhor and hring in their manifests with tha 
utaost speed* That was hefore the days of tele- 
graphs, and the manifests were often the first 
adrioes racelTsd here as to their oargoas. He 
was in the husiness with H, C. Hcyt, yAiOW 
rowing prowess has already baan mantioned in 
these artiolet. Had Oallag^ian and Tom McCann— 
the latter now with Hutton and Co., were conteia- 
perarias In the saas iMisinass. 

Targuson, hoi#srrsr, had the extraordinary 
luflk of nearly always "being in the vicinity when 
anybody was t tying to drown himself or herself 
in the waters off North Beach. Similarly, he was 
always close "by if some unfortunate fell over- 
"board or got sweopad from •am* boat In tha bay. 
Wherefore, it came about that ha was forersr res- 
cuing somebody from a watery grara. It has "been 
reTy)rted that had the Carnegie Hero Fond been 
extant in the days of ITerguson's senith at Horth 
Baaoh it would hacre been bnnkrapt long since. 

One of his most renowned exploits was the 
"talTing" of old "Comnodore" Theodore Allan, tha 
boss staredore, who used to reside on the north 
side of Greenwich street, betwaen Powell and Mason, 
aforetime the home of Colonel Thooaa Jefferson 
Chambers, of whoa more anon. 


\%m P, .^if jJij%<»Jt ■*«. K .''^•'; • V •vir 


nsrf t.^ 




tT?<3>', ma xokauxjuae ix Tjts mu^^-v; 


One day th« Consodor* nas drlTiiig out along 
M«igK«* \toaTt in his boggy, i^en th« floor of 
the pier gave vay under the hurden and let the 
\#hole outfit throu^ Into the "bay. 

Ferguson fished out the lot In olrcunstane- 
es that would have heen creditable to an aquatie 
AJax. The details of the feat helong to more 
ambitious histories. 

Colonel Chaaibert, above referred to, was the 
genial Southerner who originally opened the £1 
Dorado-~the most famous gambling saloon of the 
golden days. Afterward he went into mining stoeks, 
and the like, vlth offices at 411 Montgomery st- 

LOTS w«fM»i'iiii» AS Srra TOR COSTEBT 

(naad>ers, in 1853, presented two flfty-vara 
lota on Powell street between Greenwich and Lom- 
Iwrd, idiere the Horth Beach children's playground 
BOfv stands to the Sitters of the Presentation, 
and there they established their first convent 
school, of which Hev. Mother CooMrford was the 
oother superior. The convent Is now at Pacific and 
M*ison streets. 

Heasldng back to Sergeant Ferguson* s rescue 
of Conmiodore Allen, it la of record that the old 
Kelggs* wharf was beginning to get groggy even 
before the Saaiaellto ferry made it the SanTraneie- 
00 terminal. 

One dfljr in 1864, when Martin J. Buifce, fottnder 
•f Nsdison and Buxto's, was oapt&ln of police— he 
Tisoims chief in 1865— he was marching his siiaad 
along the wharf idien the \ibolt structure began to 

"Break step and beat Itt" was the asawnible 

■Bud that saved the day. 

ly that time the water beside the idi^rf had 

tmm a recognised dnnping pl«ce for garbage and 

rubbish, and a favorite occupation along ITorth 
Beach was fossldklog in the dxupage at low tide. 


iMuHnXn f,t 

Mt rj4 


J«v8lr7 and monay, as well as all sorts of other 
odds and ends, were recovered from the mod "by 
these industrious %rorkers. 

Many of th«m vers locally famous. There was, 
for exanple, "The ^leen of the Sumps," %Aio made 
a fortune at the game. So did "Charlie the Samper," 
otherwise Charles Walton, >^o kept the junk store 
on Trancisoo street "between the %diarf and Powell 
street, where aoftteur and casual fosslckers dls- 
3)0S«d of their trMurares. "Hob^ Wilcox" and "Spoony 
the Suxper" were aaong the dosens of the dmap grab- 
hers and were reported to lire contented lires not 
idiolly lacking in exeiteaent. 


The ezcltement raried in q[aality and quantity. 
One tlae the thrill would come from a $10 gold 
piece found in the drunpage; again it would he the 
escape of a hear from Abe Warner's menagerie in 
the Cobweh Palace annex, i^ienoe it would invariably 
make a hold hreak for freedom seaward, scattering 
the dump fosslckers like chaff hefore a gale and 
spreading terror on all sides Tintil recaptured. 

The dtnip fosslckers did not work on Sundays 
heoanse there was no ruhhish carts abroad on that 
day, hut in their absence there were plenty of 
other sources of interest. 

Hiley's shooting gallery was one. It was a 
eaanss arrangement of the coontxy fair hrand and 
air rifles were the weapons used. Every Sunday 
Riley pitched it opposite Warner's and made enough 
off the aiBat«ar marksmen to support him for the 
rest of the week. Then there was the Hev. Henry 
Cox, chaplain of the 7.M.C.A. and member of the 
insurance fim of Oumey and Cox who used to nska 
a Sunday mission of it also outside Ahe Warner's 
every Sunday afternoon as a counter attraction to 
Hiley's targets and the regular Sabhath chowder of 
the Cohwvh Palaee. 

•fi flT'T'^^pv 




Cafboat xac«t affordad another aooroe of 
Sunday lnt«r«st In tha old dagra, and soma old- 
tlnera vill recall tha orowda that used to ga- 
ther at North Baach, haok about the year 1863 or 
1864, to watoh tha raoaa hatwaan the keel eat- 
hoat, Mazaaid and tha centerhoard "boat Baatleaa, 
and tha poblio Joy idian centerboas^r von* 

Tha Mezmald SAmaiag Batha, where tha graat 
Balaton vaa dronnad in 1875, vere at the foot 
of Qyda atraat. 

Balaton veia seen strogglizig in the i«ater hy 
the engineer of tha Salhy Smelting Works steamer 
Bollion, hy \tiam tha body vas taken ashore. 

The Salby voxka vara than on tha water front 
vith a wharf of their ovn, whenoe the Bullion, a 
q[uaar old atarnMhaalar— uaad to take tha hara 
and bullion fron tha wozka to tha Tariona dalif^ 
ery whairfs* Tha aita ia nov Jafferaon atraat, 
betvaan LeaTenworth and Hyde, and is oecttpied by 
tha California Canning Company, 


Just south of the Smelting Voxka \diarf vas the 
boathouae of tha Dolphin Bowing Club vith that of 
tha Triton Boat Club close by« Both vere famous 
resorts for the young athletes of San Francisco 
during tha aarantiaa and ai^tiea. 

Tha Vialand boya-~-John, Hennan, Adolph, Char- 
lie and Baxidolpfa— vara all masbera; eo vara tha 
TiuBkay boya, Alf and Alax, and their father, John 
D. Tuokayt tha aannfa0taring javalar; Al Bothkopf , 
0« W* Tan Gulpan, than secretazy of the Cigar 
Makere' International Union; Oeorge Conway, after- 
ward police derict Jia O'Dwyar, i^ose father kept 
the big dzy goods store on Third atreet, oppoaita 
Jessie, and many another. 

The old club used to begin to get buay about 
9 o'clock on a Sunday morning, and thence until 
about 11 at nl^t roving, vrestling, boiling, bear 
drinking and other allied exercises vere tha order 
of the day. Then tha dub vould cloaa vp, and tha 
maabers would make for the old Seaside Ckurdana, 



at the foot of Francisco street, ^Aiere In dxia 
season, thou^ sometimes not before Xonday mom- 
Ine's ndlk was getting around, everybody had * 
fine kniokabeln and ««nt hone. 

At the Triton things vent pretty much the 
■ame way. Ernie Kexfaleln, who now runs two plo- 
tiire theaters In Oakland, and his brother, Tal, 
of the City of Paris, were two of Its leading 
Members. Then there were the two Schubert boys, 
Aagast aaad AdM^ and a number of other hardy 
oars—n, lAo are not nov quite so spxy as thsj 
used to be, say, forty years ago. 

October 26. 1919. 

A way back in 1838, Jusna Brlones and her 
family came to live and fazn on the bay shore* 
remote from the Mission. There they built their 
dwelling-house and there they made stables and 
corrals for their cattle and horses. 

The faxm house of Juana Brlones was the 
first ever built in the district that is now 
North Beach. It was the third built in the mod- 
em city of San Tranclsco, as distinct from the 
old HisBlon, the first and second, respectively, 
being the Hichardson and Lease houses, on Dopont 
street , near the Plasa. 

Juana Brlones conducted a milk ranch, and as 
a rids issue she hired out horses to sailors yibo 
desired to ride out to the Hiesion— as most of 
thea did in the early days~and thus she became 
prosperous. Her daughter married Robert Ridley. 
Her husband, who died in 1845, was buried on the 

Senora Brlones subsequently moved down to 
Mayfleld, i^iere she owned and conducted a splenr 
dld ranch, that was latsr sold to Martin Murphy 
and comprised soae of the finest of the proper- 
ties later inherited by the Murphy and Taafe 

San Trancisoo had no graveyard of its own 
other than that at the ohoreh of the Mission 
Dolores until a corbie of years after the demise 
of Senor Brlones. 

jLim oitt Miim- 

'-VI um 

toe _^..w W« » 


Ik, i^i 



Then one vae staked out on the east side of 
Povell street, between Oreenwldi and Lombard, and 
was the first Aaerioan cemetery here. Its first 
occupant was a soldier named Anderson, of SteTen- 
son's Heglment, idio was "burled there In 1847, 

Three years later, when the cholera epidemic 
struck the town, the cemetery "began to fill up 
and look popular* But again, three years later. 
In 1853, when Henry Heigge was "boanlng North Beach, 
he had a new cemetery, known as the Tezl>a Boma 
CesMtexy, established remotely inland, at the plaee 
that is now the CIyIc Center, and had the bodies 
from the north Beach gramyaard remored thither. 

Several corpses were orerlooked in the transfer- 
possibly there were no adequate records of the grave 
sites. Anyhow, vhen grading was "being done years 
later, coffins were frequently exposed; and for 
several years the ends of two such coffins were to 
be seen projecting from the cut on the southeast 
oomer of Lombard and Powell streets. 

The first brick house in North Beach, and pro- 
"bably the first brick residence in San Francisco, 
was the lovely hame of Captain Charles Welsh, on 
the south side of Chestnut street, between Leaven- 
worth and Jones. This was a nagnificent building 
according to the standsirds of that day, and had 
lovely gardens and an Inoonrparable view. 

Captain Welsh mads a great fortune out of hides. 
He caBM thers in the forties, and Welsh's hide house, 
from which the hides were loaded ri^t on to the 
shins, was one of the earliest landmarks of the water 



Welsh ■arrled Miss Hoaeh, a sister of Philip A. 
Boa^, \ku> founded the original Sxsainer, and of 
John Roach, \iho was the principal optician and mathe- 
■atloal Instrument iMksr here In the early days. 



«g«:. «!"*- 

IMt ISf •'-*■ 

3Q Isiw swy 

SS'ssi, *r 

kl^ *4 




Th« RoachB lived on the north side of Union 
street between Mason and Tajrlor, with their sls' 
ter, MitB Maria Roaah, \iho never married hat \dio 
was one of the most popular and kindliest charac- 
ters in San Tranoisco. 

Philip A. Roach was the first ^erlcan Alcalde 
of Montere7, and vhen John A, McGlynn, first Coun- 
ty Recorder of San Tranoisco, came out here with 
his hrlde in 1852, Roach met them at Monterey, and 
was then attired in the conventional Spanish serape 
and sambrexD vhich greatly aQTstified his Hew Toxk 

HoOlynn had made a fortune between '48 ajxd '52 
and went hack Sast for his hrlde. That was before 
San Francisco had had any opportunity to become 
famous as the habitat of the prettiest girls on 

Peter J. Mofflynn, son of John A, McOlynn, lived 
across the street from the Welsh's. He married Miss 
Hose Finley, a dangUter of Richard Pinley, >*» waa 
afterward associated with QtlTell, the eattlsnaa, 
%iho in t-jum was known as the associate in various 
ventures of Flood, Kadkai', 0»Brlea and Con O'Connor. 
'Hell's son Jerome now owns the great Santa Margar- 
ita ranch. 

MoGlynn was asaooiated In naaar ventures with 
Peter Donohoe. His brother Fnuak still lives in 
Horth Beach, and another brother, Charles J. McClynn, 
is oaohier of the Internal Revenue Department here. 
Another popnilar family in the sane locality was 
the Buckleys, 

Frank Bodkley case xcp here from (Hxile with oodles 
of nme/, sad did nuth for Ban Francisco when the 
town was new. He had a lovely home on the north side 
of LoBbard street, between Mason and Taylor. His 
daa^ter, Maiy, was married to Frank HoOlynn, Oertride 
to William O'Brien, the contractor, and her daa^ter 
was married to Walter Sewfaall, grandson of H. M. 
Vewhall, the pioneer anetioneer, and associate of 
Peter Donohoe in building the original Son Jose Hail- 

■S.^^V. -9^ 

fit 4f 


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%lk» luae fif Ca|vW^ 
9«pvrrJl«tJic TBHHr 

Xb tiMM tr 
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tTum tiM- 

Iterlte r 

tSriii «*ur%tv 


Niat Norah Baoklej was one of the first great 
^•Mxtiet of Saa Franeisoo. 

As veil as being a remaxteible beauty she was 
a peoollarly gifted smsioiaa, and when, as often 
hsppened. she gsre a nnsioal recital for the bene- 
fit of some charity, the fact that her name vas on 
the progranae packed the house* But all the Buckley 
girls vere 'beaaties~Horah, Gertrude, Agnes and 
Elisabeth. Some of them live with their brother* 
on Jackson street, near Broderick. Agnes was mar- 
ried to Dr. SttlliTan, a dentist; Joe married one 
of the Misses Tobia. 


Next door to the Welsh's, on the east, was 

the home of Captain John BirminghwiB, United States 
aaperrislag Inspector of Halls azid Boilers, \Aio 
was later Idsatified with a powder company. 

In those Tery early days William T. Sheniaa, 
the famous Oeneral of later days, was in the bani^ 
ing business here, and was an intimate friend of 
the Welsh's. He used to sit on their big porch 
and rest up hie heels on the railing. So long and 
so often did he indtd^ in this relaxation that 
he wore off the paint of the railing. 

Later, after his famous march throng Georgia, 
Mrs. Welsh carefally preserved those heel-marks 
from the incursions of of house-painters, and ex- 
hibited them proudly to all her northerner friends 
as the indubitable tracks of the great General. 

Adjacent to the Welsh's, on the southwest cor- 
ner of Jones and Chestnut streets, was the home 
of Villiam P. Taafe, who married the daughter of 
Martin Morphy, and thus brou^t about the \inion 
of those two pioneer families. 


Most of the people ^Ao were then and there- 
abouts boys and girls are now dead. Bat some of 
them surrlTe and remember how they used to listen 

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for the "bugle call of rrreille that echoed ahore- 
yaxi every moxning from Alcatraz, and hov on Its 
call they hopped oat of hed to foregather on some 
nearby comer—half a dozen or nore of t h— ■■ en d 
trot doim to Baaiber'a hatha for a swim, uhhanper- 
ed hy any of the conventional aoall clothes that 
vere considered proper at a later hour of the day. 

Close "by, at the comer of Jones and Francisco 
streets, vas the hone of the Dohertys. Old George 
Doherty was a contractor, and the hoys, Pete, John 
and Creorge Jr.~ were among the crack svinmers and 
athletes of the Beach. All three went into the 
police. John and George are dead. Thousands of 
small San Franciscans are the sworn friends of 
Pete, who is attached to the Park Police station, 
and has "been for years in police control of the 
Children's playground. Old George Doherty' s cow* 
ftnA carts were aaoivg the features of North Beach 
\^ien it was a pleasure resort. 

One of the epochal events "by \A.ich— in the 
absence of dyna8tie»~histoxy is recorded in North 
Beach, was the hattle hetween Joe Kane and JasMS 
Aitken, which was held in Doherty' s hazn ahout the 
tiae of the Franco-Prussian \kx, 

Joe Kane weui a lannehaaa in the employ of the 
eustOBs serriee and the leading pugilist north of 
Maiket street. Aitken was the champion filter of 
Tar Flat. 

For years Tar Flat claimed the fistic suprem- 
acy of the «ity, hut the North Beachers never ad- 
mitted the claia. 

Eventually the dispute was hrou^t down to a 
matter of hrass tacks and James Aitken volunteer- 
ed his services to sustain against any and all Tar 
natters the superiority of his own district. 

From far and wide men gathered to Doherty' s 
hanx, and little children, gog^e-eyed with excite- 
ment—stood anxious on eVezy neaAy comer to carxy 
bulletins of the comhat to their mothers. 

To the inexpressible glory and delist of the 
Beach, Kane had his man as good as walloped from 
the start. Aitken, thereafter, always declared that 
the salt air of North Beach was too strong for him 
and that he would have beaten his asa had he dared 
challenge hla in Tar nai. 




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Joseph Copprloe, a Clajr street llqtior merchant 
and a politioal 'boss of the sixties, li-ved on Chest- 
xxat street hetveen Dapont and Kearny, and was a 
royal entertainer. Another prcmlnent resident on the 
same 'block vas Hexman Heynemann of the Pioneer Wool- 
en Mills at Black Point, %du> llTed on Pacific street 
near Povell, and i#a8 the father of the Heynemazin 
'brothers, now so prominently identified with the 
manofaoture of overalls on the coast* 

Captain O'Reilly, the "boss stevedore, lived on 
the same 'block; so did James Harold, the commission 
merchant, and his 'boys, Jim, Track, Will and aeorge, 
^tio were among the many \6iO awaited the call of the 
Alcatras 'bugler on stimmer mornings to summon thsa 
to the svim at Bamber's. 

Bat the show place of the 'block was the hone of 
Ed D. Heatley, of Paalkner, Bell and Co., an English- 
man who— like Colonel Manrow, who had lived away out 
on the Point Lo'bos Road, \^B*d to rids out nearly 
every morning with his horses and his hounds like a 
regular hujitiog squire. 

Another institution of happy memory thereabout! 
was Mrs. Tenpenny*s private school for small child- 
ren, \Alch was on Chestnut street near Stockton, and 
vhere aforetime were spanksd, as occasion required, 
some of the young ladles and gentlemen v^ subsequent- 
ly shone 'brilliantly as Iseiders of San Francisco's 
very hi^iest society. 


On the south side of Chestnat street, between 
Stockton and Powell— was the home of the Ztanne 'boys — 
Jtid|(e Prank IXxnne, Tom Donne, Jim and Pete— the two 
last Based of \Aum have passed to the great majority. 

Michael Price, the Keamy street cutler and 
sportsman, lived on the Sams 'blookt so did Pete 
Fanning, of the Identification Bureao, iidu>se father, 
led Fanning, the contractor, was one of the leading 
lights of North Beach. 



'—■ YES 

sf^iypi f- 


Or !-i, "^t --A- 

Jaawt King of William, the iMmkcr and editor 
lAo WM nordered on Montgomez7 fltreet, used to 
lire on the west side of Jones street, between 
Lonbard and Chestnut, Imt later moved to the cor- 
tmt of Pacific and Mason streets. 

7r«d Marriott of the Kews Letter sob sequent I7 
took the Jones street house and lived in it for 
many years* Near-hyf on the northwest comer of 
Jones and Lombard streets, was the home of Major 
Snyder, director of the Mint. On the southside of 
Lombard street, between Jones aiid Taylor, was the 
home of Edward Martin, one of the original direct- 
ors of the Hibemia Bank. It afterward became the 
residence of Judge Selden S. Wri^t, one of the 
leading Jurists and society men of the older days. 
Sdward Martin married the widow of Major Harvey- 
Mrs. Heanor Martin, the mother of J. Downey Harvey, 
^o has been associated with many California en- 


The Van Boeketens had a mansion on the south- 
east comer of Lombard and Jones streets that after- 
Mtfd beoaae the hoae of Judge Dslos Lake. Later, the 
house was taken by Joseph Moody of Moody and Farrish, 
the wool sen, and became one of the pivotal points 
of Horth Beach society, the Moody girls being notably 
attractive in a city renowned for its lovely women. 

Gustavo Touohard, the first president of the 
French Bank, has his home on the northwest comer of 
Lombard and Mason streets. 

Bear in mind that Horth Beach preceded Rincon 
Bill as the haunt of fashion in San Francisco, and 
was also, as stated before, the holiday resort of the 
city before (tolden date Park was evolved from the 
sand hills or the Cliff House had been conceived. 

Everybody went there. It was always the pleasure 
hamt of poor old Emperor Norton, idio regularly eawsh 
morning promenaded Meiggs wharf, in the days of its 
glory, and as regularly extended his promenade as 
far as Senator Jack Fay's homo by the So^ factory 
whara, regularly also, he would pay his lorperial 

321 X 

respects to the Senator and Mrs. Fay, In recog- 
nition thereof he invariably wore an iomense 
'boutonnaire of whatever flowers happened then to 
he in the garden, and with that in his button- 
hole, he smiled on hia subjects all the rest of 
the day*